j?>r 



5^ ^73 



SB 473 
.S8 

Copy 1 





By Wm.R Stark Stark City Missouri 




Isn't This Yard Attractive and Inviting? 
The enjoyment of your back yard will be greatly increased by a "natural" 
combination of the useful and the ornamental. <J/ /\ I ^ 

©CI,A'459i75 ^ 

M1\R -7 1917 



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FOREWORD 




I 



William P. Stark. 



ANDSCAPE GARDENING has 

developed wonderfully the last 
few years. The big spectacular parks 
have received the most attention, but 
the greatest progress has been in the 
improvement of home surroundings in 
city, town, and country. 

This booklet is for the home-maker. 
It is not a complete text book on land- 
scape gardening, but it does give the 
information necessary for planting suit- 
.able trees and shrubs about the home, and tells how to arrange and care 
for them. 

Many who want to beautify their homes hesitate because they 
have had no experience and are not familiar with trees and plants. 
They have also been discouraged by the average writer's talk of 
"grading," "artificial ponds," and other expensive features. Yet the 
correct planting of a place is a simple matter and inexpensive. 

Imitate Nature. It is really very easy when you get the idea. 
Nature uses many trees and shrubs and acres of ground to produce her 
effects, while the home ground is comparatively small. But the prin- 
ciple is the same. It is possible to plant your place and make it look 
beautiful, natural, and much larger than it actually is. That is the 
best form of landscape gardening. It never goes out of style, but be- 
comes more beautiful each year. 

If you cannot do it all now, you can at least make your plans and 
carry out a part of them from season to season. 



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THE RESULT GF A Lll'lLE tXPEIx'SE A>JD LABOR 




Eefoie Planting. 




After Planting-. 



GENERAL PRINCIPLES 3 

How often you see a cozy little home nestling among vines, flowers, trees, and 
with stretches of open lawn ! By itself it is only a plain little house, but the flow- 
ers and shrubs give it beauty and character, and help wonderfully to make it a 
home. It shows good taste and thoughtful attention, although not necessarily the 
expenditure of much money. 

Planting is like painting a picture. The trees and shrubs are your colors. 
The rules for successful planting are simple and few. Plant the outer border of 
your place with masses of dense, ratl.er tall-growing shrubbery, giving a distinct 
outline and form to your property. Keep the taller-growing plants well back, 
then the medium-growing, and next the low-growing at the inner edge, forming a 
dense rounding mass of shrubbery which gradually meets the lawn. Plant round- 
ing masses of shrubbery in the corners, as well as along the boundary line. Avoid 
too many straight lines and geom.etrical angles. Have a number of different kinds 
of plants, but enough of one type in a place to produce a definite effect of rich 
shade, color, flower, or fruit. Use vines and shrubs, not to display their own 
characters, but to mask sharp lines of buildings and as a frame for distant views. 

Around the house have open stretches of lawn. It is especiallj- important to 
keep small yards open. A small yard, properly planted around tie outer edges, 
will appear larger than it really is. Don't scatter single isolated shrubs all over 
the lawn. Don't plant trees or flowers in the center of a snail lawn. However, 
on a large, spacious lawn nothing is more desirable than groups of sf ade trees or 
single specimens placed a little to one side of the house where shade is needed. 

Plant climbing vines on the porches and arbors. The Dorotliy Perkins Rose, 
Honeysuckle, and Japanese Clematis can be planted on the sane porch, giving a 
succession of bloom. Plant the medium and small-growing shrubS; Roses, Peonies, 
and Phlox in masses around the corners of the house and to hide the foundation, 
and in corners of the porches and curves and corners of the walks. Always se- 
lect the dainty, more refined flowers for planting where they will be seen closel}-. 
Put the more rank-growing flowers farther in the background. 

There are many different shades of green in leaves and combinations of colors 
in flowers, which, when mixed, are exceedingly beautiful and inteiesting; while 
variation in bark color gives an entirely new change after t!:e leaves are off in 
tLe autumn. 

A well-planted succession of growing, blooming things aljout a house are a 
never-ending source of pleasure, growing more beautiful and attractive every year. 

Don't plant trees in the center of a small lawn. 

Don't scatter "shoe-button" plants all over the lawn. 

Don't have a round flower-bed. 

Don't have useless paths, isolated pergolas, iron seats, dogs, rabbits, deer, or 
ot!ier imitations on the place. 

Don't plant Silver Maple or Poi)lars unless you alternate with a good slow- 
growing tree, with the intention of removing tlie fast-growing tree as soon as the 
other has developed. 

Don't have terraces near the sidewalk. Grade from the house to the walk 
line with an even slope if possible. 

Don't try to establish grass on steep banks. Plant trailing vines which will 
take root as they go — Honeysuckle and Dorothy Perkins Rose. 

Don't plant shade trees closer than thirty feet apart. 

Don't wait— MAKE YOUR COMPLETE PLANS NOW. 



4 THE RIGHT WAY 

THE RIGHT AND THE WRONG WAY 

The planting of shrubs and trees about the home should have a meaning. 
Everything should be so arranged as to make the home the center of the picture. 
The lawn should be open and should not have meaningless trees and bushes scat- 
tered promiscuously over it. The right style of planting makes a landscape, even 
though the area be no larger than a parlor. The other style is simply a collection 
of curious plants. The one has an instant and lasting pictorial effect which is 
restful and satisfying. The observer exclaims, "What a beautiful home!" The 
ether piques one's curiosity, obscures the residence, defies and distracts the atten- 
tion. The observer exclaims, "What beautiful lilac bushes!" — Adapted from 
L, H. Bailey's Bulletin on Suggestions for Home Planting. 



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Lawn View and Shrubbery Planting. 
THE RIGHT WAY 

The result is truly beautiful, natural, and harmonious. It looks as if it "just 
happened" — but it didn't; it took careful planning. The numerous large trees 
form a background for the liouse and lawn, and give the a]:)pearance of distance 
and extent. The veteran on the left, standing guard at the entrance of the home, 
shows how trees may also be planted close in — but note that the wide lawn is not 
disfigured by scattering "shoe-button" shrubs all over it. The only shrubs on the 
lawn are two just at the right of the walk, placed there so that a slight curve in the 
walk can be made around them, breaking what would have been a straight, stiff 
line to the porch. The walk then curves gracefully to the right along the rising 
slope, keeping close to the shrubbery border. 

Note how the low-growing Rugosas, Barberries, and Deutzias are planted at the 
outer edge of the mass of shrubbery, then the higher-growing Syringas and 
Snowball farther back. 

Effective ma.s.scs of Spirea Van Houttei and Hydrangea are placed at the 
corners and near tl e foundation, making the house look as if it "belongs there." 
The touch of Boston Ivy on the brick-work to the right of the porch is good, as 
is also the climbing Rose at the corner of the porch. Of all the shrubs, vines, and 
trees, not one stands out like a museum specimen on exhibition. They all blend 
together and form a part of the home picture which becomes dearer and more 
beautiful each j-car. 



THE WRONG WAY 




Lawn Poorly Planted. 

THE WRONG WAY 

Everything is neat, but stiff; well kept, but poorly planned. The mass of 
shrubbery at the right of the door is overgrown and appears out of place. The 
round flower-bed and formal "shoe-button" shrubs spoil the unity of the planting. 
Eauh plant does not do its part to make a complete and beautiful picture. The 
vine on the porch is the one attractive feature. 






II' -— 'Ij 



m 



The Wiong Way. 

Tlie usual unattractive way of scattering 
shrubs all over the lawn. 







The Right Way. 

The natural way of planting in masses 
to form a picture. 



THE GROUPING OF SHRUBS 




Tho shrubbery masses in the above picture are exceptionally good. Xuti' thi iii:i-> in the ex 
treme rif;ht-hand corner with the tall Woigela and Lilac in the center; then tlie niediuni-grovving 
Spiroa Van Houttei; then around the outer borders Deutzia Lemoini and other low-growing shrubs. 
In the shrubbery mass on the left note th? tall-growing Snowball in the center; next the medium- 
height Spirea ^'an Houttei and the low spreading Japanese Bush Honrysuckie. 



SHRUBBERY MASSES 

Pleasing results in groups of shrubs do not conu> from large numbers of the 
same variety in a single mass, but from liarmorious arrangement of different varie- 
ties. Each grouji or plantation should have an excuse for existence, a reason for 
occupying that particular spot. If there are unsightly rear views, plantations in 
groups or belts should be provided in order to hide them'. If a portion of tlie 
ground is to be used for a garden or a stable, planting should be made so as to 
shut these areas from view effectively. Groups of shrubs are also used to fill in 
the grooves of walks and drives and the corners, arranged according to form and 
size. In grouping shrubs, those with a tall, ujiright habit of growth should occupy 
a rear or central location, to form general barriers, against which the lower-growing 
sorts may l)e arranged in regular gradation. 

Plant tlie low-growing, drooping shrubs near the outer edge. Avoid exjjosing 
bare slalUs of shrubs in the group. Low-growing, dense foliage plants are as essen- 
tial to a successful group or border as are the tall-growing sorts. Nature's \\ay is 
the safest guide. 

In all planting th.e aim should he to conceal the hand of the gardener as 
much as ])ossible. In small, fornal jilaces with straight walks and ledges, the 
gardener's shears must be used fietiuently, but always with the idea of jirotlucing 
harmony and symmetrj^ without n aterially altering tl.e natural grc wth of the plants. 

The arrangen:ent of grou))s of shrulis cm page 7 is adapted from a Government 
Bulletin by L. I. C'orl)et. Th.ese groups aic not offered in collections, but by way 
of suggestion. Other gioujis will be found on page 24 and are sold in special col- 
lections. It is desirable to cnml ine in each groui) as much of inteiest as possible 
without making it heavA ard iinattrfctive. 



EXAMPLES OF SHRUBBERY MASSES 




DETAIL OF SHRUBBERY GROUPS SHOWN ABOVE 

Group A— F, 3 Golden Bell (May) ; S, 3 Lilac, Common Purple (May) ; V, 2 Snowball (June) ; 
SP.fS Spirea V. H. (July); A, 4 Althea ("August and September); H, -i Hydrangea P. G. (July to 
September) . 

Group B — D, 2 Deutzia, P. of R.(June); F, 3 Golden Bell (May); B, 2 Barberrj% Japanese 
(May to December). 

Group C — 27 Roses in variety. 

Group D — C, 3 Sweet Shrub (June to August); P, 3 S.yringa (May); S, 3 Lilac, Common 
Purple (May to June); PJ, 3 Japan Quince (April to May). 

Group E — A, 6 Althea (August to September) ; B, 8 Barberry, Japanese (May to December) ; 
P, 10 California Privet (June to July). 

Group P — F, 3 Golden Bell (April to May); H, 4 Hydrangea P. G. (August to September); 
PJ, 6 Japan Quince (April to May). 

Group G — C, 3 Sweet Shrub (June to August); P, 3 Syringa (May to June); S, 3 Lilac, 
Common Purple (May tq June); PJ, 3 Japan Quince (April to May). 

Group H—D, 2 Deutzia, P. of R. (June); F, 2 Golden Bell (April to May); B, 3 Barberry, 
Japanese (May to June). 

Group i — F, 2 Golden Bell (April to May) ; S, 3 Lilac, Common Purple (May to June) ; 
V, 2 Snowball (June to July); SP, 3 Spirea V. H. (July); A, 4 Althea (August to September); 
H, 2 Hydrangea (August to September). 

Group K — ^V, 3 Highbush Cranberry (May to July) ; S, 4 Lilac, Common Purple (May to 
June) ; C, 4 Sweet Shrub (June to August) ; B, 9 Barberry, Japanese (May to December) ; P, 6 
California Privet (June to July). 

Group L — RT, 10 Staghorn Sumac. 

Group M — P, 12 California Privet (June to July) ; S, 4 Lilac, Common Purple (May to June) ; 
F, 3 Golden Bell (April to May). 

Group N — P, 14 California Privet (June to July); S, 4 Lilac, Common Purple (May to June); 
A, 2 Althea (August to September) ; B, 9 Barberry, Japanese (May to December). 



8 GENERAL ARRANGEMENT OF TREES AND SHRUBS 

THE ATTRACTIVE VERSUS THE UNATTRACTIVE 

Trees should, as a rule, stand either as single specimens in isolated positions 
or in irregular groups, rather than in long rows. ' Under certain conditions long 
avenues of trees, regularly disposed on either side of a driveway or a vista, give a 
very pleasing and imposing effect to a large place. The general rule for trees also 
applies to shrubs, except that their use should be chiefly in groups or belts, rather 
than as specimen plants. Few shrubs possess sufficiently graceful and cliaracter- 
istic habits of growth to make them pleasing when grown singly on the lawns, 
but where a number of specimens of varying habits are brought together in a single 
group, the differences are emphasized by contrast and the variety produces a pleas- 
ing effect. This is especially true if the rate and habit of growth, as well as the 
olor and character of the foliage, are somewhat different. 









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The Wrong Way. 

The above shows tlie effect ot having the 
shrubs and trees planted in straight lines and 
angles like the boundaries of the yard. It is 
stiff and unattractive. 




The Right Way. 

This shows how the proper planting relieves 
the stiffness of the yard and makes a more 
attractive setting for the house, at the same 
time giving an effect of greater extent. 



Generally avoid planting in straight lines about the lawn. You will note that 
the most beautiful natmal scenery is strikingly devoid of straight lines. 

The boundary and building lines about the home lawn are usually straiglit. 
Therefore, to have the lawn as pleasing as jiossible, it is all the more necessary 
that the shrubs and trees be planted in irregular masses and groups to relieve the 
stiffness of the existing straight lines as much as possible. 



CIVIC IMPROVEMENT 




-;SWt' 



111 iiiMi'ly every community there are unsightly, disreputable spots similar to the above. They 
impress visitors unfavorably and retard the growth and development of the town. The responsibil- 
ity for sueh conditions lies with the owner, the mayor, and every other citizen. 




This picture shows the great improvement which a little thought, time, and effort has produced 
in the place shown above. Unfortunately, property-holders and business men, whose interests are 
most vitally affected, usually leave such improvements to the women's clubs and schools. 



10 



ORNAMENTAL TREES 




Norway Maple (Acer Platanoides). 

Everyliody ai^j^reciates fine trees for their beauty and utility. Every member 
of the family should plant a tree in the yard. They grow larger and more beau- 
tiful every year, adding value to your property. Plant trees now; time will do the 
rest. Fast-growing kinds are often planted between others and are cut out when 
the longer-lived, slow-growing trees are big enough. 

WINDBREAKS Windbreaks can be made by planting Norway, Sugar or Silver 
Maple, or Linden (Basswood). These tall-growing trees should be set twenty feet 
apart, with a second row of Russian Olive. This tree grows lower and bushier and 
should be planted eight feet apart. The Carolina Poplar and Lombard}' Poplar are 
also very good, quick-growing, tall trees, but not so long-lived. 

BECHTEL DOUBLE-FLOWERED CRAB The flowers are a beautiful pink; very 
". ~^ ,,. . i(P. loensis) sweet-scented; two inches in diameter. 

Best of all the double-flowered Crabs. From a distance the tree looks as if it were 
loaded with roses. Blooms in May. Grows thirty feet tall. Hardy. 



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Dogwood. 



Bechtel Crab. 



ORNAMENTAL TREES 



11 



BLACK WALNUT The Black Walnut is native to the entire eastern half of the 
(Juglans Nigra) United States and suited to all parts cf the West; succeeds on 

alkali land; leaf-stems one to two feet long, with thirty or more small,'^tapering, 
pointed, bright green leaflets on each central stem. Nuts are round, one and one- 
half inches in diameter; highly flavored kernel; prized by confectioners for richness 
and quality. Wood is hard, strong, very durable, a beautiful dark brown; used for 
cabinet-making, gun stocks, etc. Walnut furniture now sells for more than ma- 
hogany. The tree is open, spreading, and 
a faster grower than hickory; attains a 
height of 60 to 100 feet, sometimes 150 on 
fertile soil. Should be planted as an orna- 
mental tree, as a nut tree, and as the most 
valuable fast-growing timber tree of all. 

DOGWOOD, COMMON The common 
(Cornus Florida) white-flowering 

Dogwood; grows wild in the woods along 
streams. Large, creamy-white flowers, 
three to four inches across, come early in 
tiie spring before the leaves, followed by 
clusters of scarlet berries in the fall. 
Hardy. Grows twenty to thirty feet tall. 

ELM, AMERICAN WHITE Beautiful na- 
(TJlmus Americana) tive shade 

tree. Fine for avenue or streets. Can be 
])lanted close to houses, as the high arch- 
ing branches leave space for air and light. Golden Rain Tree. 
Grows up to 100 feet tall. (Koelreuteria Paniculata.) 




GOLDEN RAIN TREE— VARNISH TREE The most popular decorative tree 
(Koelreuteria Paniculata) from China. Ornamental through- 

out the entire season, especially adapted for planting in small yards and in groups 
or clusters; finely divided; attractive green foliage, turning dark red and gold in 
autumn; clusters of yellow flowers one to two feet long, appear in May, followed 
by large, bladdery seed-pods two feet long; hardy, also endures drouth, adapted to 
planting throughout the United States. Its neat foliage, showy flowers and adapt- 
ability make it one of the most-desirable medium-sized trees. Grows fifteen to 
thirty feet high. 



GREEN ASH A beautiful spreading tree with broad, rounding top, 

(Fraxinus Lanceolata Viridis) slender branches; very hardy, long-lived; a rapid grow- 
er, especially when young; light green leaves. Extensively planted as an orna- 
mental street and park tree in towns and cities throughout the entire United States; 
suited to conditions from Saskatchewan, Canada, to the Gulf of Mexico, and espe- 
cially valuable in the prairie States of the Northwest; grows sixty to seventy feet 
high, two or three feet in diameter. 



12 ORNAMENTAL TREES 

HORSE CHESTNUT The most beautiful tree in May — with tall rounded dome 
(^sculus Hippocastanum) of liandsome green leaves and large showy clusters or i)yr- 
aniids of wliite flowers mottletl with red. Its dense growth and heavy tent-like 
leaves make it ideal for shady bowers, roads, or parks in towns and cities in the 
North and Eastern United States, where it thrives best and is extensively planted. 
LINDEN, OR BASSWOOD White, fragrant flowers, which attract bees. Large 
(Tilia Americana) heart-shaped leaves. A rapid grower, often reaching 

a height of 90 feet. 

MAPLE, NORWAY A large rounded tree. Dense foliage, smooth, glossy, dark 
(Acer Platanoides) green, turning yellow in the fall. One of the best and long- 
est lived for street, park, or garden. Grows to 100 feet. 
MAPLE, SILVER LEAF The White or Silver Maple is a large, fast-growing tree. 

(Acer Saccharinum) Very attractive. Should be planted alternately with 
the slov er-growing but more permanent Sugar or Norw^ay Maples, and cut out 
when the latter have attained a good size. Grows to 120 feet. 
MAPLE, SUGAR The Hard or Rock Sugar Maple is the best park, shade, and 
(AcerSaccharum) street tree of all. Beautiful dark green foliage, which turns 
red and yellow in the autumn. Moderately fast-growing, but hardy, vigorous, and 
long-lived. Grows to 100 feet. 
POPLAR, CAROLINA Fastest-growing tree; slender, sometimes 100 feet high. 

(P. Carolinensis) Shiny, bright green leaves. Best for crowded districts of 

large cities, and as a quick shade tree. Sometimes called "the sudden sawlog." 
Grows 75 to 100 feet. Should be planted alternately with more permanent trees. 
Does well in arid States. 

POPLAR, LOMBARDY One of the most striking and picturesque trees. A tall, 
(Populus Nigra Italica) narrow, columnar tree, growing CO to 100 feet straight 
up. The tall spire-shaped tops are landmarks in almost eveiy populated region 
from tlie Atlantic to the Pacific, and from the Canadian frontier to the Mexican 
boundary. Longer-lived than the Carolina Poplar. Bright, glossy green leaves. 
Used as a windbreak, as it does not spread out; also extensively planted in the 
Western country to prevent blowing of sand. It is of special value in landscape 
work where it is planted to relieve monotonous sky-lines and to increase the 
ai)parent height of hills. 
RUSSIAN OLIVE (Oleaster) The Russian Olive is a large shrub or small tree, 

(Elaeagnus Angustifolia) 12 to 20 feet high— sometimes grows 40 feet. It 

is a rapid, spreading grower when young, and will develop an immense head unless 
kept in shape by pruning. The leaves are small, oval, shiny. The glistening silvery 
foliage is very pleasing in contrast with the green of other trees. In blooming-time 
it is covered with immense masses of little golden, honey-scented flowers; the bees 
fairly swarm over them. The fruit is oval, yellow, covered with scales. The Rus- 
sian Olive is the best tree known for semi-arid regions, as it will stand the most 
heat and drouth. It makes an ideal low, dense windbreak or hedge. Sometimes • 
called "the candle tree." Very hardy. 
STAGHORN SUMAC This is a typical Sumac, except that it forms a small 

(Rhus Typhina) tree, 20 to 30 feet tall. Its beauty has been overlooked 

by many planters. Fits in wherever a large shrub or small upright tree is desired. 
The rich, green fern-like foliage gives a tropical effect. The foliage turns a brilliant 
flaming red in the fall, very conspicuous and beautiful. After the foliage is gone, 
long clusters of small, round, crimson-red fruit, covered with velvety hairs, re- 
main during the entire winter. Hardy; grows very fast. Prefers sunlight. (See 
page 33, under "Shrubs," for the low-growing form of Sumac.) 

SYCAMORE, EUROPEAN (Oriental Plane) A large, round-headed, wide-spread- 
(Platanus Orientalis) ing tree, regularly formed, usually 

with a short, heavy trunk. A beautiful and majestic shade tree. Grows SO feet 
tall. A very good street and avenue tree. Good for all soils, even at th.e sea-side. 
Succeeds where others fail. More shapely and better tree than the American Plane. 
Bright green, five-pointed leaves. Hardy. 



FRUIT FROM YOUR OWN GARDEN THE YEAR ROUND 



13 



iO FeeJ- 




Early Rose 

(PeacW 



Abundance Shropshire 

(Plumj (Plumj 



Earl_y Richmond Monlmorenc^ 

(Cherry) (Cherry 





Superb 

fApncon 



Endicott 
(Plurn) 



Superb 2 5 Everbearing SIrawbcrry 
Progressive 



Oregon 
Champion 



SI Regis 



7 Gooseberry 4Fl.Aparf 
] Q □ □ a I 
7 Currant 4 Ft.Aparf 



25 Red Raspberry 
1 Ft Apart 



10 Black Raspberry 
22 Ft Apart 




1 Ft. Apart 
25 Everbearing SIrawberry 



A space 80 by 80 feet, with varieties planted as shown on above plan, will more 
than supply a large family with all the fruit they can use, beginning with strawber- 
ries early in the spring, followed by cherries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, 
blackberries, early summer apples, apricots, peaches, plums, pears," grapes, fall and 
winter apples. Apples may be stored and, with canned fruit and preserves put up 
during the summer, will give an abundant supply of fruit the year 'round. 



Note: The ground betwean the fruit trees can be used for the first few years 
for an additional planting of strawberries, blackberries, etc. These will begin bear- 
ing the second year, and produce a number ot crops before they have to be taken 
out to make room for the fruit trees. 



14 PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS 

WHEN TO PLANT 

Spring is the best time for planting in the northern half of the United States 
and in the arid Western States. 

Fall planting has some advantages in other regions, but not sufficient to war- 
rant postponement from spring to autumn. \Mth low-growing shrubs and Roses, 
fall planting may be practiced satisfactorily farther north, if protection is provided 
during the winter by mounding the earth up over them and putting on a mulch. 
This should be rakecl off in the spring. 

The Peony and Iris will reach full blooming strength sooner if planted in the 
fall. They should be mulched to prevent alternate freezing and thawing, which 
would heave the roots out of the ground. Fall and winter ]ilanting, without pro- 
viding this protection, may be practiced successfully in Maryland, Delaware, the 
Virgmias, Kentucky; southern ])arts of Ohio, Indiana, Missouri; all States to the 
south; eastern part of Oklahoma; Texas and the Pacific Slope, where there are 
winter rains. 

ORNAMENTAL TREES 

Dig the holes large enough to hold the roots without crowding. Cut off broken 
and injured roots and shorten any that are extra long. Set the tree two inches 
deeper than it stood in the nursery. Fill in the hole with loose rich dirt, pressing 
it firmly about the roots. If the ground is dry, pour in several gallons of water 
before the last four or five inches of dirt are thrown in. After the water soaks 
in, fill the hole completely with loose dirt. Do not press down the wet dirt about 
the roots. 

Pruning Cut out the smaller branches. Shorten the larger ones to four or five 
good buds. Sometimes the buds near the base of the branch are small and un- 
developed and may not grow. Care should therefore be taken to leave several 
large, plump buds on each branch. Do not shorten any branches after the tree 
starts to grow. 

The second j^ear, after the tree has made a good growth, the kind of pruning 
depends on the results desired. Some trees, not planted as shade or road trees, 
should be kept with low -branching heads. For instance, the Bechtel Flowering 
Crab is naturally low-growing and the central leaders should be cut out. 

On the other hand, the Maple, Elm, and other shade trees should keep the 
central leaders. As the tree gets older, the lower side branches should be cut off, 
giving room to pass under them. If the central leader is injured, a side branch 
can be trained to take its place. 

Shade trees, like other plants, respond to care and attention. Watering dur- 
uig a hot, dry summer, and cultivation will foster their growth. They will give 
you shade much sooner if they are not neglected. 

SHRUBS 

Spade the ground deep. 

Make the holes, prune the roots, and set out as directed under "Ornamental 
Trees," except that shrubs should be set no deeper than they stood in the nursery. 

Keep the weeds out. Water often if the season is hot and dry. A mulch 
of leaves or straw will help to keep the roots moist and cool. During the first winter 
they should have a heavy mulch of leaves or coarse manure. 
Pruning At planting-time, cut the branches back one-half to two-thirds. 

Alter the shrub is well estabhshed, cut out old, weakened canes and shorten 
those branches only that give the bush an unnatural appearance. It is often 
necessary also to remove branches on the inside — small weak shoots, which pro- 
duce poor flowers and detract from the looks of the shrub. 

Shrubs should not be sheared heavily. Hedges of Privet or Japan Quince are 
an exception. 

Prune Hydrangeas and Altheas regularly each winter. They will then produce 
better flowers, as they blossom in late summer on new wood. 

Deutzia, Spirea, Japan Quince, Philadeli>hus, and shrubs which flower on wood 
of the previous season's growth sliould not be pruned until June or July, nfter 
they are through blooming. 



PLANTING AND CAKE OF UKNAMENTALiS Ifi 

Planting This depends upon tlie purpose for whicli the shrub is used. As a gen- 
Distance eral rule, the distance between shrubs in a mass should be one-third 
to one-half their height when grown. The distance varies with the size which 
the shrub will eventually attain. 

As a rule, shrubs should not be planted in the shade. However, Barberry, 
Deutzia, Japan Quince, Snowberry, Privet, and Weigela will thrive in shady places. 

LILAC 

Dig the holes large enough to hold the roots without crowding. Cut off broken 
or damaged roots. Set the plant five to seven inches deeper than it stood in the 
nursery, but do not fill in the last five inches until the plant has made a good growth. 

The Lilac requires little pruning at any time. Remove broken or uneven 
branches at planting-time only. The bloom is borne on one-year-old shoots. Re- 
move the withered flowers. Cut out weak branches entirely just after blooming — 
do not cut them back. Otherwise, prune for form only. Remove all suckers. 

For a hedge, set the plants one and a half to two feet apart. For growing 

flowers for the market, three feet apart 
in the rows, four to six feet wide. 

HEDGES 

There are two kinds of hedges — those 
with a dense, solid growth which may 
l^p ' ''pt sheared in a formal shape and 
-e a good fence or barrier. They 
..re cheaper and more attractive than 
iron or picket fences that require paint- 
ing. The other kind of hedge is made 
\\'ith more ojDen-growuig shrubs. They 
are more graceful and attractive, but 
do not make as good a barrier. 

Privet This plant is more frequently 
planted for hedge purposes than any 
other. There is a hardy variety suited 
to northern planting. Plants can be 
set nine inches to a foot aimrt in the 
row. Where a very dense hedge is de- 
sired, the plants can be set in a double 
row, each plant one foot and the rows 
also one foot apart. 

In preparing the ground, dig a trench 
a foot or more deep and set the plants 
six to eight inches deeper in the ground 
than they were in the nursery. This 
will bring three or four of the lower 
l)ranches below the surf ace, which, after 
the first year, will make roots of their 
owm, giving a dense solid growth. 

The Privet takes readily to shearing. 
By using the shears repeatedly through- 
out the summer, trimming the new- 
shoots, W'hile they are tender and soft, 
the hedge can be trained into any one 
How to Plant Two-year Privet. "^ a number of formal shapes; this, 

Sot the plants several inches deeper than they bowever, requires a great deal of work 
stood in the nursery, with the lower part of the and IS now practiced less frequently, 
branches below the level of the ground. Mound A hedge with a naturally rounded 
the dirt up six or eight inches above the level of p,-nwth is more attractivp in mn<?t 
the ground, to prevent the tops drying out. Rake glOWtll IS more attractive in mosi 
this off when the hud.'^ start to open. Situations 




16 PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS 

Japan Quince can be gro^Ti in the same way and can be sheared with jmpunity. 

Japanese Barberry is a graceful-growing shrub, but should not be planted 
\\ here a sheared hedge is desired, as it does not take readily to clipping. However, 
it forms a good low fence, as its numerous thorns will prevent children and dogs 
from running througli it, although the thorns are not strong enough to tear clothing. 

Very attractive boundary hedges can be made from Spirea Yan Houttei, and 
Crimson Rambler and Dorothy Perkins Roses. The canes should be cut back 
within three or four feet of the ground, to prevent their trailing. The Rugosa and 
Conrad F. Meyer can also be used to very good advantage. 

All of the tall-growing shrubs form very attractive hedges. These should be 
set a foot or one and a half feet apart, and low -growing ones, such as Barberrj^ 
one foot apart. 

CLIMBING VINES 

Boston ?et the plants as deep as the}' stood in tlie nurser^^ Protect the top 
Ivy the first winter after planting, with a mulch of leaves or straw. When 

once estabhshed, it is very hard}-. It will climb and cling to wood, brick, rock, 
etc., anything except an iron support, which gets hot during the sumn.er. 
Japanese Dig a hole that will take the roots without crowding. Set the crown an 
Clematis inch below the surface. Clematis should have a rigid support. If a 
string or wire is used, it allows the wind to blow the plant about, injuring it. 
Cut out all of the weak growth and during the winter prune the remainder heavily 
if you want the most bloom. Clematis thrives best when well fertilized and 
watered during drj- weather. 

Honeysuckle HaU's Hone3'suckle will thrive on all soUs and under nearly all 
conditions. Set the vines as deep as they stood in the nursery. Make the hole 
large enough to take the roots without crowding. 

It is especially good for verandas, houses, pillars, etc., as the wire netting 
or lattice it needs to grow on may be loosened and laid flat on tl:e ground while 
the woodwork is painted. 

It is one of the few vines that thrive at the seashore and will bloom all summer 
except during tlie hot, dry weather. 

It makes an attractive cover for a fence, where it should lie set every sLx feet. 

It can also lie used to cover steep banks and unsightly ])laces too shady for 
other plants. For this purpose, set the plants four feet apart each way. The 
vines will spread in all directions and take root, forming new plants, which make 
a sohd, matted covering for the ground. 

It will thrive in spite of neglect; but, to secure best results, tb.e ground si ould 
be cultivated and given a dressing of manure during the winter, when tl e older, 
weaker vines should be cut out. 

Wistaria Set the plant as deep as it stood in tlie nursery. Keep it hoed tl e first 
summer, but after that do not fertilize or attempt to force its growth. It takes 
several years to come into blooming, and even longer if the growth is forced. The 
vine should have a strong, ]3ermanent support, for it is long-lived and eventually ■ 
becomes very heav}-. It naturally produces nigged, twisted brand es, wl lich are§' 
very effective, \yhere it is desired to cover the entire surface of a building or arbor, T 
it is necessary to fasten the leaders, keeping tliem taut; and to train some of the 
outside branches. After the vine reaches the blooming age, it may be made to 
produce enormous quantities of flowers by cutting back the new growth each 
year to spurs. 

To cover a tree, plant either the AA'istaria or the Trumpet Vine quite a dis- 
tance from the trunk of the tree, and put several yards of the stem under ground. 
Trumpet Vine Set the plants as deep as they stood in the nursery. They prefer 
verj' fertile soil. The ground should be fertilized every winter. E.'Jj^ecially fine 
for covering rock walls and fences, to which it clings and climbs. Also used in 
covering buildings. 

Climbing Roses These should be planted as described under "Roses." The only 
pruning necessary is to cut out the old, weakened canes. 



PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS 



17 




PEONY 

Peonies can be planted either in the fall or 
spring. They are vigorous, hardy, and thrive 
ever^'where, except in the low altitudes of the 
Gulf States and southern California. 

The ground should be spaded deep, two 
feet if practicable. Fertile soil is prefera- 
ble, though not necessary for satisfactory 
results. Set the crown three inches below 
the surface of the ground. If planted in 
the fall, mulch with four or five inches of 
fine earth and leaves, straw, or coarse stable 
manure. It is advisable to give the ground 
immediately around the plant a dressing of 
manure every winter. The rough trash should 
be raked off in the spring. 

Every seven or eight years it is advisable 
to dig them up and replant them. Cut the 
roots into two or more parts with a sharj) 
knife. Each part should have three to five 
eyes. Reset in September or October as de- 
scribed above. 

When planting in mass for color effect, set eighteen to thirty inches apart, 
depending on whether the variety is a strong grower. In growing for cut flowers, 
set two and one-half feet apart, in rows three and one-half to four feet wide. The 
tops die in the fall, and should be cut off. Some leave them until spring to mark 
their place, so that the roots will not be dug up by mistake or injured when 
the ground is worked over. 



Peony. 

Peonies make strong shoots. The buds 
can force through several inches of ground. 
The buds of the crown should be set at lea^t 
three inches below the surface of the ground . 



IRIS 



The Iris is one of the most beautiful flowers, and can be grown anywhere, 
on all kinds of soil. It will thrive in spite of neglect where other flowers fail, 
but gives best results on fertile, well-drained soil. The Iris can be planted either 
in the fall or spring. Strong plants set in the fall will give more bloom the first 
season than those set in the spring. Put the crown of the root about two inches 
below the surface, pressing the dirt firmly around it. Be careful not to get the 
roots too deep; otherwise they will rot. If planted in the fall, they should be 
well mulched the first winter with four or five inches of loose soil and leaves or 
coarse manure. This should be raked off in the spring. For planting along bor- 
ders and in masses for immediate color effects they can be set eight to ten inches 
apart. If planted in rows, set eighteen inches apart in rows three feet wide. 

When the clumps of Iris get large, they can be divided with a sharp spade 
during their resting period late in August and transplanted. If reset promptly 
in fresh earth .and w.atered, they will produce the usual bloom the following spring. 



18 



PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS 
' 1 PHLOX 




Phlox. 

The new growth starts from buds 
at the crown. These buda must 
be set not more than one inch be- 
low the .surface of the ground, as 
shown above. 



Phlox are hardy and thrive everywhere. Spade the 
ground well and work it fine. Then dig a hole deep 
enough so the crown, or bud, will come one inch below 
the surface, and large enough so that the roots will 
not be crowded. Be careful not to get the buds at 
the base of the stalk too deep. The old stalk is dead, 
and the new toj) must be developed from these buds. 
Press the earth firmly about the roots. If the plant- 
ing is done in the fall, mulch with five or six inches of 
loose earth and leaves. Rake this off in the spring. 
Blooms can be produced all summer by cutting off the 
tips of some of the shoots as soon as the buds start to 
form. These shoots will put out side branches, which 
provide a later bloom. Plant twelve to thirty inches 
apart. 

The tops die to the ground each winter and should 
be cut off. Some gardeners leave the dead tops until 
spring, so that the roots will not be dug up by mis- 
take or injured when the ground is worked over. The 
roots can be divided as soon as the new sprouts ap- 
pear above the ground in the spring. This will not 
prevent their blooming. They should be lifted and re- 
set in fresh earth every four or five years to give 
best results. If there is any trouble with mildew, they 
should be divided and transplanted every third year. 
Mildew is seldom troublesome; but, where this is the 
case, spray thoroughly with Bordeaux mixture early in 
the spring. 

ROSES 
Roses should have a warm, sunny location. They can be made to grow on 
any soil, preferably a deep, well-drained, fertile loam. A few bushes of suitable 
varieties, set out like any other shrub, will thrive almost anywhere with the care 
usually given to shrubs and other plants. Nothing will respond to care and fer- 
tilizing as does the Rose, and in order to get the largest, most perfect bloom 
throughout the entire season, special planting and attention is necessary. 
When to Plant Roses can be planted either in the fall or spring. (See the general 
paragraph on "When to Plant," page 14.) Early planting is best. 

Roses are handled according to the type of Rose you plant and the results you 
require. Conrad F. Meyer and Rosa Rugosa may be used as shrubs, in which case 
they are treated as other shrubs. The climbing Roses are treated very much as 
other climbing vines. These climbing varieties may also be jilanted in rows and 
cut back to form a hedge. 

When grown for cut flowers, thej' should be planted in beds and cultivated 
as any other crop. There are two classes of Roses for planting in beds: the bedding 
Roses, such as Annie Muller and Gruss an Teplitz, which produce a profusion of 
medium or small-sized blooms that are most attractive on the bush and are grown 
as an ornament in the yard ; the other varieties, suchas Snow Queen, Maman Cochet, 
and Wm. R. Smith, are grown for their attractive individual bloom and used as cut 
flowers. 

For planting in beds, the following directions are especially worth while. They 
will give you results that you never dreamed possible. Follow these methods as 
far as you can. 

Soil Preferably a deep, well-drained, fertile loam. Stiff clay can be im[)roved 
with several loads of sifted coal ashes or sand. To get best results, a great deal of 
nompost or well-rotted manure should be mixed in with the dirt. You can not 
make the soil too rich, but no newly planted Rose 'shonlH havp its ront.s within strik- 
ing flisfnncp of pven old or well-rotted m.nnnre 



PLANTING AND^CAKE OF ORNAMENTALS 



19 




For two rows of bushes the beds should 
be three feet wide, and for three rows four 
and one-half feet wide, and as long as de- 
sired. Bushes should be set one and one- 
half or two feet apart in the bed, depend- 
ing upon whether they are large growers, 
like ISIaman Cochet and Snow Queen, or 
small, bushy growers, like Annie IMuller. 

When the soil is naturally fertile, spading 
tlie ground thoroughly will give good results. 

When the soil is not naturally fertile, 
jirepare the bed the spring before by spading 
in well-rotted manure and leaf mold. If 
the soil is stiff clay, add sand or sifted ashes. 
A large quantity of manure may be used, 
l)roviding it is mixed in some months ahead 
and well rotted before the plants are set. 

Those who make a specialty of Roses pre- 
pare beds as follows : Lay out the bed the 
size desired. Throw out all the dirt to a 
depth of two or two and a half feet, and 
put in six inches of small, crushed stone. 
If located near large trees, a border of boards 

or permanent concrete should be placed Rose. 

around the edge, to prevent the tree roots Cover the tops of newly-planted Rose bushes 
from taking the fertiUtv needed for the with a mound of loose dirt 6 to 12 inches tall. 
Roses. The bed should be filled in with a T'^.'^ prevents the tops from drying out and 

. , f ii • 1 r i-1 J. -1 dymg before they can start growth. As soon 

mixture of one-third or more fertile top soil as the buds start to grow, rake this mound off. 
from the garden, one-third of the clay sub- when planting budded Roses, the point where 

soil, and one-third of well-rotted manure. ^^^K",'?^''?'' 'nT'''''J° the stock (as shown 

r„, ' , , , , 11 • 1 1 J- ii by A ) should be set several inches below the 

1 hey should be well mixed before they are surface of the ground, 
put in the pit. This mixture should be 

mounded up some inches above the surface of the ground to allow for settling. 
If there is not tinie to allow the ground to settle, it should be thoroughly trampecl 
down as it is put in. 

Planting The manner of setting Roses depends on how they are propagated. There 
are two methods: First, by growing from cuttings and green wood tips, which 
gives a plant on its own roots. Second, by budding on Manetti or other hardy 
stocks. This method gives strong plants and is necessarj' for many of the less 
vigorous varieties. The budded Rose requires particular care in pruning; other- 
wise, the briar stock will put out suckers below^ the bud and finally crowd it out . 
The bud is less vigorous at the start, and sometimes the suckers are allowed to 
remain by those who fail to distinguish one from the other. But the suckers from 
the briar stock are easily recognized, as the foliage is different, usually having 
seven leaflets instead of five, and the cane is nearly covered with thorns. Further- 
more, the sucker comes up from the root below the surface of the ground, usually 
several inches from the main stem. 

Budded Roses should be set so that the point where the bud was inserted in 
the briar stock is two inches below the surface of the groimd. Roses-on-their-own- 
roots should be set as deep as they stood in the nursery. Dig the hole eighteen 
inches deep; cut off broken or injured roots; hold the plant in position; spread 
out the roots so they do not cross or crowd one another at any point; fill in the holes 
carefully with the fertile top soil, pressing it firmly in about the roots. A small 
handful of finely gromid bone meal sprinkled in is veiy helpful. After the hole 
has been filled and dirt pressed firmly, cut back the top canes one half to two- 
thirds, and then mound loose dirt up about them for six to ten inches. This 
mound of dirt should be placed about the canes whether the plants are set in the 
fall or spring— otherwise, they are apt to dry out. If the Roses are planted in the 
fall, this mound should be covered with a thick mulch of straw or leaves. As 



2U 



PLANTING AND CARE OF ORNAMENTALS 



soon as the buds start to grow, rake away the mound and cut back the canes, 
leaving two to four buds to each cane. Make this cut just above a sound outside 
bud, so that the new canes will grow outward and make a shapely bush. 

Cultivation Just before the growth starts in the spring, spade in well-rotted ma- 
nure or fertilizer. Avoid deep cultivation, which is apt to break the roots; three 
inclies is sufficient. The ground should be kept well cultivated during the sum- 
mer. When it is hot and dry, pour on enough water so as to wet the soil deep. 
The best time to water Roses is early in the morning, before the temperature rii-es. 
Cultivate as soon as the ground is dry enough. Careful cultivation will retain the 
moisture for a week or more. Never wet the foliage late in the day otherwise 
mildew will develop. A mulch of peat moss three or four inches deep will make the 
bed cooler and prevent the roots from drying out. 

To stimulate rapid growth, frequent wettings with weak m.anure water are 
excellent. This is made by soaking a bushel of old rotted n anure from the cow 
barn or pig sty in a barrel of water. 

Roses are well established after the first season, and should be pruned each 
spring according to their needs; i. e., remove any old or weak canes and shorten 
back the others a half to four-fifths before growth starts in the spring. 

The different varieties of Roses require different pruning, as their habits of 
growth vary. Tie following should be pruned lightly: Annie Muller, Maman 
Cochet, and Wm. R. Smith. The Snow Queen sh.ouldbe pruned moderately. 
The following should be pruned hard, cutting back the canes to about six buds: 
General Jacqueminot, Marshall P. ^^'ilder, and Paul Neyron. The following should 
not be pruned except to remove old, weak canes: Conrad F. Meyer, Dorothy Per- 
kins, Rosa Rugosa, Crimson Rambler, Climbing American Beauty, and Gruss an 
Teplitz. 

Remove the flowers as soon as the petals begin to drop. Do not allow seed- 
pods to form, except on the Rosa Rugosa, whose pods are quite attractive. 




Roses Make Very Attractive Hedges. (See Page 16.) 



21 



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22 THE UNIT COLLECTION PLAN 

Planting the Home Grounds 

By Frank A. Waugh, Landscape Gardener 

Frank A. Waugh is Professor of Horticulture at Massachusetts 
Agricultural College, Amherst. He is the author of "Landscape 
Gardening" and other excellent books, which are valued not only for 
reliable information, but also for the direct, concise, simple jjresenta- 
tion. We were indeed fortunate in securing his plans and presentation 
of this unit collection idea. William P. stark. 

"The throe accompanymg plans are designed to represent typical 
cases. They present the usual forms of home grounds. The first one 
shows the average size and form of city lot, the second an example of 
a suburban place, and the third a representative farm yard. In each 
case the plan indicates how the grounds may be planted to secure the 
best effect, having in view economy of first cost and the lowest possible 
cost of upkeep. 

The novel feature of these plans, and the one which should prove 
of practical service to the home-owner, is the arrangement of unit col- 
h^ctions of trees, shrubs, and other plants for carrying out the designs. 
This scheme has certain manifest advantages. 

1. It gives an intelligible design. They are to the home-builder 
what jiatterns are to the dress-maker. 

2. The nurseryman can keep these standard collections in stock 
and can sell them at lower prices than usually charged, thus effecting a 
substantial economy for the buyer. 

3. The buyer can substitute certain units for others, or make 
other changes according to his own taste or discretion. 

4. The homo-buildor can Iniy a portion of the necessary plants 
from yv^ar to y(^;ir, thus distributing the outlay over several years. 

It need not be expected that these plans will exactly fit every place. 
On tiu! contrary, modifications of greater or less degree will be required 
in adjusting these patterns to a majority of places. Such changes 
sjiould be freely made ac^cording to the taste of the home-owner, but. 
in order that the final result may be as successful as possible, it is highly 
important to make such alterations in harmony with the principles of 
design which have controlled in the original ])lans. Some of the most 
important of these priiK'i]>les should be stated Ium'c and carefully con- 
sidered by everyone who undertakes this sort of work." 



THE UNIT COLLECTION PLAN 23 

"1. Have a definite design or plan for the entire place. Follow this plan just 
as you would follow the architect's plan for the house. 

2. Plant in masses or continuous borders. Single detached specimens should 
be seldom used; stiff, round bunches or "clumps" never. 

3. Make these border plantings along the boundaries of the home lot. 

4. Or else form continuous screens where privacy is desired or where un. 
pleasant views are to be covered. 

5. Also plant continuous or nearly continuous borders along the foundations 
of the dwelling-house and attached buildings. 

6. Heavier masses may be planted at the outer angles of the home lot. 

T. Leave the centers open. Never plant trees, shrubs, or flower-beds in the 
center spaces of the lawn. 

S. Make these open lawn spaces as large as possible. Placing the house at 
one side of the lot will help in this. 

9. Place the largest trees to the south and west of the house, so as to have 
shade from noon till night. 

10. Divide up the space so as to serve all purposes to advantage. A fully 
equipped house lot should have three parts, viz.: (a) a small, neat front yard; 
(6) a service yard for hanging out the wash, handling the poultry, or any other 
necessary work; (c) a good large family yard, or lawn, with some privacy, where 
the family can read, visit, play croquet, or indulge in any other domestic recreations- 

11. Plant native, hardy trees, shrul)s and flowers by preference. Avoid showy 
freaks and all unnatural-looking specimens. Also avoid all showy ornaments, such 
as white-washed stones, flower-l)eds edged with soda-pop bottles, iron dogs, deer, etc- 

12. Place flower-beds in the back yard rather than in the front yard. 

13. Use few varieties of trees and shrubs, and a considerable number of each 
variety. The collections offered in this book' necessarily include several different 
kinds, and represent the extreme limit to which it is desirable to go in the selection 
of varied materials for a small place. 

14. Plant a few things every year. No place will go on forever without 
additions and repairs. 

15. Give proper care. Trees, shrubs, flowers, and lawn grass will not thrive 
under neglect any more than corn or potatoes. 

The owner of a farm or home who proposes to improve his home grounds by 
the aid of Mr. Stark's nursery service should bear ever in mind one other important 
fact, that these are merely ready-made designs. There is so much individuality 
in gardens that the best results can be achieved only when each plan is individually 
designed. Some people can well afford to employ competent landscape gardeners. 
The writer and the publisher of this book join in urging this course on everyone 
who aspires to the very best results. Capable landscape gardeners will be cheerfully 
recommended to those who ask for such information. 

But thei-e will always be fifty or a hundred home-gardens to every one person- 
ally designed by the professional landscape architect. Home-made gardens have 
their proper and important place in the world; and the service of this book is 
cordially tendered to those peo]ile who u.se both." 



24 



UNIT COLLECTIONS 



These unit collections ure described by Prof. Waugh and are used in the various 



plans. 

Collection "A" 
Trees for ordinary village streets. Plant 15 
to 30 feet apart. 

5 Silver Maple 

CoHection "B" 

Street trees for immediate effect. Plant 20 to 
30 feet apart. These may be alternated with Kims 
or other permanent trees and removed in '<> 
] years, 

5 Carolina Poplar 

Collection "D" 

Trees for narrow or smoky streets. Plant 12 
to 30 leet apart 

5 Horse Chestnut 
Collection "E" 
Hardy, deciduous trees for sliade and general 
ornamental effect. 

2 Silver Maple 2 American Elm 

1 Green Ash 2 Carolina Poplar 

Collection "F" 
This Barberry is especially suited for a hedge. 
It is very hardy, low-growing, with attractive foli- 
age and red berries, which hang on well into the 
winter. It has thorns which are sharp enough to 
prevent children and dogs from trampling it down, 
hut not strong enough to tear the clothing. Set 
plants about 1 foot apart. 

75 .lapanese Barberry 

Collection "H" 

Medium-height, fine shrubs for the smaller 
places. 

3 Spirea Van Houttei 5 Deutzia Lemoini 

2 Snowball 5 Weigela Rosea 

Collection "I" 

Hard.N- shruljberj- for border planting, screens, 
etc. Plant them in continuous borders, not in 
separate beds, but all plants of the same kind 
together. Plant about 2 feet apart each way, 
irregularly, not in rows. 

5 Rosa Rugosa 5 Spirea Van Houttei 

5 Snowball 10 Japanese (Quince 

5 .Syringa 5 Weigela Rosea 

1 Snowberry 

Collection "J" 
Hardy shrubbery for use interchangeably with 
Collection "I" or in addition to it where desired 
on larger places. Plant in the same manner. 
5 Old-fashioned Lilacs, 5 Hydrangea Pan 
5 Deutzia, Pride of Grandiflora 

Rochester 5 High Bvsh Cranberry 

10 Deutzia Lemoini 10 Snowball 

5 Prairie Rose 

Collection "K" 

Hardy, native shrubs for naturalistic effects, 
masses, border?, and screens. Selected also for 
lino autumn colors. 
5 Slnghorn Sunuich 5 Common .Sumach 

(Rhus Typhina) (Rhus Glabra) 

5 Common Sumach 5 Dogwood (Cornus Alba 

(Rhus Aromatica) or Siberica) 

Collection "L" 

Large-growing, liarily shrubs for heavy screens, 
hiding out-buildings and big masses generally. 
5 Spirea Van Houttei 5 Honeysuckle ,1,'ipan Hush 
5 Syringa .5 Pr.airie Rose 



Collection "M" 

Fine, delicate, but hardy shrubs for planting 
along the foundations of the house, near porches, 
and where they will be .seen at closest range. 
5 Spirea Van Houttei 10 Deutzia Lemoini 
5 Japanese Rose , Globe Flower 
Collection "N" 

Lilac should be planted in groups in corners of 
the back yard or similar places. These budded 
varieties are as far superior to the common Lilac 
as grafted Apples are to wild Apples. 
2 Ludwig Spath 2 President Grevy 

(reddish pjrple) (bUie) 

2 Madame Abel Chatenay (white) 

Collection "O" 

These extra hard\- Roses are especially recom- 
mended for planting in the northern United States. 
2 Paul Neyron (pink) 2 General Jacqueminot 
2 Marshall P. Wilder ferimson) 

(red) 2 Conrad F. Meyer 

2 Snow Queen (pure (silvery pink) 

snow white) 

Collection "P" 
These are the b^st everbloo'ning Tea and Hy- 
brid Tea Roses. They aie only moderati^ly hardv, 
and, when planted north of Philadelphia and l;t. 
Louis, should ^e given protection in winter by 
wrapping with newspapers and pulling the dirt op 
around the base. 

3 Maman Cochet (pink) 4 Wm. R. Smith (creamy 
3 White Cochet (whitO pink) 

Collection "R" 

.Showy climbers for front or side porches and 
other prominent situations. 
2 Dorothy Perkins 2 Honeysuckle 

Collection "S" 

Climbers for large mixed planting, especially 
where large screens are to be developed. 
2 Honeysuckle 2 Crimson Rambler Rose 

2 Clematis Japanese 2 Trumpet Vino 

Collection "T" 

Hardy perennial old-fashioned plants for the 
flower garden. I'lant in rich soil and fertilize 
annually. 

3 Peonies, assorted G Phlox, .assorted 
(5 Iris, assorted 

Collection "U" 
Twenty .assorted Phlox for use in front of the 
larger shrubbery mns.ses, as a border alont-^ the 
walk, or in the fioiver garden. 

20 Phlox, assorted 
Collection "V" 
Peonies for the flower garden, in groups beside 
the porch, in angles of the house, beside tne garden 
gate, or similar places. 
3 Festiva Maxima 3 Jeanne d'Arc 

Collection "W" 
Hardy Iris for any position where fine flowers 
are desired. 

15 Iris, .assorted 
Collection "X" 
Fine orn.amentiil frfit trees for the lawn. 
4 Cr.ab Apple, Ilyslop or iilxcelsior 




foot must be used to the best advantage. When the houw 



CITY RESIDENCE PLAN 

This is a typical small lot, 75 feet by 100 feet. Every sci 
is placed on one side, it gives the largest possible space. 

Note that the shrubbery masses are set close to the outer boundaries to make the grounds appear larger and more extensive 

At the top of the plan, the hedge of Barberry (FF) takes the place of a fence. Just below it in the "flower border," Peonies, 
Phlox, or Iris can be planted, or such annuals as Nasturtiums or small vegetables. 

Ttiis plan should also be used for a small lot in a town or village, using a somewhat different variety of trees. 



CoUecCion "A" 

Trees for ordinary village streets. Plant 15 to 
30 feet apart. 

5 Silver Maple 

Collection "B" 

Street trees for immediate etTect- Plant 20 to 
30 feet apurt. Those may be nll«ruated with Elrnn 
or ottier permaneut trees and removed in 6 to 

5 Caroliun Poplar 

Collection "D" 

Treea for narrow or amoki' city streets Plant 
12 to 3U feet apart. 

6 Horse Cbe.itQUt 
Note: Only one of these three collections to be 



Sole: Unly c 
lued in this plan 

Collection "T" 

This Barberry is especially su 
It is very hardy, low-growinii. wil 
Af^v and red berries, which I 
winter. It has thorns y-'--^ 
prevent children and doj 






Two units are used. 



smaUer 
places. 

3 Spirea Van Uouttei 5 Deutzia Lemoini 
2 Snowball 5 Weigela Rosea 

Collection "K" 
Hardy, native shrubs for naturalistic effects, 
Selected also for 



tine 






5 Coiumou Sumach d Dogwood (Cornus Alba 

(Rhus Aromatioa) or Siberica) 

Collection "L" 
Large-growi riR. hardy shrubs for heavy 



Orange 5 Prairie Rose (Rosa 

Note: Two of these unita are used in this plan. 
Collection ' 'M' ' 
Fine, delicate, but hardy shruba (or planting 



along the ioundai 



■ the clothing. Set ^ f P"«» ] 



,nd where they will be s 



) Deutzia Lemoini 



' back yard or similar places. These buddec 



as grafted Apple; 
2 Ludwig fc" 

(reddiabuui, . 
2 Madame Abel Chutenay 

(white) 

Collection ' 






2 Marahall P. Wilder 

(red) 
2 Snow Queen (pure 



(pink) 2 General Jacquemino* 



2 Conrad F. Meyet 



Collection "P" 



They are only inoderateiy hardj. 



wrapping with newspaper and pulling the dirt i 



Collection "V" 



beside the garden gate. < 
9 of 3 Festiva Maxima 



, in angles of Ute houM- 
r in similar places. 
3 Jeanne d'Arc 



SUBURBAN HOME PLAN. 

This place is 140 feet by IGO feet. The marRins are not planted as closely as in the smaller town or city lot. You will 
note that the method of planting produces the effect of prcater expanse. The lawn in front is kept open, but the shrubbery 
conceals the unsiglitly foundations. 

Two (M) collection units are used in front, one at the riRht, the other at the left of the front steps. Steps at the side lead 
directly into the flower garden, which is planted on three sides to secure privacy. 

The shrubbery- mass (H) screens the laundrj' yard and other buildings from view, except from the kitchen. 

The hedge along the "drive" is a double row of plants set a foot apart each way. It makes a more desirable hedee than 
a single row. 

The street treea in front are 5 Silver Maples— Collection "A." These quick-growing trees will last a great manv years 
but some prefer to plant the slower-growing, longer-lived Sugar Maples at the places indicated, and Silver Maples and Poplars in 



between. Those fast-frowing trees arc cut out as soon as the Sugar Majilos have attained sufficient 

For the orchard, no collections arc specified, as the kinds and varieties should be selected to suit the 
taste. A general i>lan for the fruit gar<lcn, page 13, shows what even a small i)lot can produce. 

Colleotlo.) "A" toffetber. Plnnt about 2 feot apart each wi 
rrcgulnrly, not in rowa. 

5 Rosa Utiaoon 5 Spircii Vrb Houtt«i 

6 Snowball 10 Japanese Quince 
5 S>'rin8a 6 Weigelo Ilosea 

Collection "J" 



)it and locaUty and 



TteP8 I 

.30 fo«t api 



riint 15 t 



hedge. 



ordiuary villntcc 
5 Silver Mapio 
Collection "P" 
The Barberry U especinlly suited for 
It is very bardy, low-growing, nith attractive (oli- 
ase and red berrice, wbi''h bang on w<;Il into tbe 
winter. It baa thornii which arc sharp enough to 
prevent obildrcn auil dogs from tranipbni; it down. 
but not Btrona enough to t^ar the rlothinn, Sol 
plants about 1 foot apart. 

75 Jnpunese Barberry- 
Note: Two unita are used in this plan. 

Collection "H" 
Medium-height, fine Hbrubbery for tlie smallfr 
5 Spirea Van Houttoi 



10 Snowb< 



3 Spirea Van Houttoi 5 Deutnia Lpmoini 
2 Snowball 5 Weigela Rosea 

Collection "I" 
Hardy sbrubbery for border planting, s 



Hardy shrubbery for use ioterohangeably with 
Collection "I" or in addition lo it where desired 
on larger places. Place in tbe same manner. 



llochester 



10 Deutsi 
5 Prai 



i Hydrangea Pan 



J Snowball (Viburi 



Note: 



Opulua Sterile) 
> units are used in this plan. 
Collection "M" 
, but hardy shrubs for planting 
and where they t 
, 5 Spirea Van Houttei 
6 Japn 



along tbe foundations of tbe boi 



To"' 



at closest range. 
Deutzia Lemoini 



Collection "&" 
Showy climbera for front or aide porches and 
2 Dorothy Perkins 2 Honeysui-kle 

Collection "T" 

Jd-fo-xhioned plants for ( 
>il and ft 
Phlox, assorted 



Hardy, 
annually. 



Plant 



loil and fertiliie 



asaortod 

Collection ' 
Twenty aaaortcd Plilox for uw 



orted 



larger shrub ben 



border along the 



Two 



20 Phloi. assorted 
Collection "V" 
Peoniea for use in the flower garden, in g: 
^aide the porcn. in angles of tbe bouse, b 
X garden gate, or similar places. 
Feativa Maxima 3 Jeanne d'Aro 

Note: Two units are uaed in tois plan. 

Collection "W" 
Hardy Iris for any position where fire fli 
e desired. 15 Ins. assorted 

Note: Three unita are used in this plan 

Collection "X" 
Fine ornamental fruit trees for the lawn 



9 5 IP 20 ap Ao ^ ^o 6o 70 ^o go 19 



1 




it • 






• ^ 


; 


; :^ 




' N 




: -^ 




: ^ 





/ 



^/ 



J 



(. ' J 



y 






( • u 






\. 



•^ 






\. 



^^ 



'V. .J 



y 



40 5jO 60 70 ao 90 



HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN PLAN. 

Spend enough time on your plan to make it complete. Then in 
later seasons, when you add more shrubs, roses, etc., they will harmonize 
with your first planting. 

Perhaps you do not care to do all your planting at one time. In 
any case, you will avoid the evils of the "hit-and-miss" method, and 
secure the best results, if you first lay out a definite, complete plan. 

You know the dimensions of your grounds, or can easily measure 
them. Each square in the cross-section sheet represents one foot. 
(You can let each square rejiresent two feet or more, according to 
the size of your place.)* 

Locate the house in the proper place, drawing to scale. 

Draw in other buildings, walks, trees, and other permanent objects. 

Determine what part of the grounds should be kept open. 

If 3'ou have an attractive view from a window, do not obstruct 
the outlook by your planting. 

Mark the location for the planting of trees, shrubs, etc., accord- 
ing to the principles explained in this book and illustrated on the 
blue prints. Locate the collections to meet your particular taste and 
requirements. 

The result will be comparable wdth the effect secured by an ex- 
pert, and your satisfaction will be the greater because you have done 
it yourself. 



♦Note: Vso a pencil then you can erase if necessary. 



Scale 10 — 20 — 30 — 4p"-i'0— 60— 70---80 — 90 — 100 Feet 



COUNTRY RESIDENCE. 




1 • I 


■• IV- -\ ■ '. « 


1 
1 
_l 

1 


-r 



T U V W 



KIJK 



[ ■ 



./■'!■;> -J I Croquet 






'^^ 



J 







^ H I Cj n w A Y 

9 ^ 10 y 3u 40 y &o ''^ 




ao ,90 ip o 



The more open surroundings make it unnecessary to plant the margins as closely 
as on a small lot. Note how collection (K) is placed to cut off the view of the barn 
and buildings in the rear. 

The shrubbery is planted in larger masses in kce[iing with the wiile, open spaces. 

The Silver Maples along the main highway at "A" may be planted with the slower- 
growing Sugar Maples in between. The former can be cut out as soon as the Sugar 
Maples reach the desired size. 

Where the soil and other conditions will jicrniit, the home orchard should be 
located near the house. Tliis will insure better care and greater convenience. 



Collection "A" 
Trees for ordinary village streets. 
Plant 15 to 30 feet apart. 

5 Silver Mai)te 
Note: Two of these units are used in 
this plan. 

Collection "E" 
Hardy deciduous trees for shade and 
general ornamental effect. 
2 Silver Maple 2 American Elm 

1 Green Ash 2 Carolina Poplar 

Collection "J" 
Hardy shrubljcry for use interchange- 
ably with Collection "I" or in addition 
to it where desired on larger i)la(;cs. 

Plant m continuous borders, not in sep- 
arate beds, but put all the plants of each 
kind together.. Plant about 2 feet apart 
each way, irregularly, n(,t in rows. 
5 01d-fashiono(l]Lilacs 5 Hydrangea 
5 Deutzia, Pride of Pan, Grandiflora, 
Rochester 5 High Bush (Jran- 

10 Deutzia Lemoini berry 

5 Prairie Rose 10 Snowball (Vihurn- 

(Rosa Setigera) um Opulus Sterile) 
Note: Two of these units are used in 
this plan. 



Collection "K" 
Hardy native snrui)s for naturalistic 
efTccts, ma.sses, borders, and screens. Se- 
lected also for fine autumn colors. 
5 Staghorn Suniadi 5 Coniinoii Sumacli 
(Rhus TJ^)hina) (Rhus Glabra) 

5 Common Sumach 5 Dogwood (Cornus 
(lllius Aromat- Alba or Siber- 

ica) ica) 

Collection "M" 
l''ine, delicate, but hardy shrub.s for 
planting along the foundations of the 
house, near jiorches, and where seen at 
clo.sest range. 

5 Si)irea Van 10 Deutzia Lemoini 

Hcuttei 5 Japanese l{<,.se, 

Glone 1 'lower 
Note: Two of these units are used in 
this plan. 

Collection "S" 
Climbers for large mixed planting, e.s- 
jiecially where largo screens are to be 
developed. 
2 Honeysuckle 2 Trumiiet Vine 

2 Clematis, Japanese 2 Crimson Rambler 

Rose 

Collection "T" 

Hardy i)erennial old-fashioned plants 
for the flower garden. Plant in rich soil 
and give some fertilizer annually. 

3 Peonies, assorted 6 Phlox, assorted 

6 Iris, assorted 



COUNTRY RESIDENCE. 

The more open surroundings make it unnecessary to plant the margins as closely 
as on a small lot. Note how collection (K) is placed to cut off the view of the barn 
and buildings in the rear. 

The shrubbery is planted in larger masses in keeping with the wide, open spaces. 

The Silver Maples along the main highway at "A" may be planted with the slower- 
growing Sugar Maples in between. The former can be cut out as soon as the Sugar 
Maples reach the desired size. 

Where the soil and other conditions will permit, the home orchard should be 
located near the house. This will insure better care and greater convenience. 



Collection "A" 
Trees for ordinary village streets. 
Plant 15 to 30 feet apart. 

5 Silver Maple 
Note: Two of these units are used in 
this plan. 

Collection "E" 
Hardy deciduous trees for shade and 
general ornamental effect. 
2 Silver Maple 2 American Elm 

1 Green Ash 2 CaroUna Poplar 

Collection "J" 
Hardy shrubbery for use interchange- 
ably witli Collection "I" or in addition 
to it where desired on larger places. 

Plant m continuous borders, not in sep- 
arate beds, but put all the plants of each 
kind together.. Plant about 2 feet apart 
each way, irregularly, not in rows. 
5 01d-fashioned]Lilacs 5 Hydrangea 
5 Deutzia, Pride of Pan, Grandiflora, 
Rochester 5 High Bush Cran- 

io Deutzia Lemoini berry 

5 Prairie Rose 10 Snowball (Viburn- 

(Rosa Setigera) um Opulus Sterile) 

Note: Two of these units are used in 
this plan. 



Collection "K" 
Hardy native snrubs for naturalistic 
effects, masses, borders, and screens. Se- 
lected also for fine autumn colors. 
5 Staghorn Sumach 5 Common Sumach 
(Rhus Ty])hina) (Rhus Glabra) 

5 Common Sumach 5 Dogwood (Cornus 
(Rhus Aromat- Alba or Siber- 

ica) ica) 

Collection "M" 
Fine, delicate, but hardy shrubs for 
planting along the foundations of the 
house, near porches, and where seen at 
closest range. 

5 Spirea Van 10 Deutzia Lemoini 

Houttei 5 Japanese Rose, 

GloDe I'lower 
Note: Two of these units are used in 
this plan. 

Collection "S" 
Climbers for large mixed planting, es- 
pecially where large screens are to be 
developed. 
2 Honeysuckle 2 Trumpet Vine 

2 Clematis, Japanese 2 Crimson Rambler 

Rose 

Collection "T" 
Hardy perennial old-fashioned plants 
for the flower garden. Plant in rich soil 
and give some fertilizer annually. 

3 Peonies, assorted 6 Phlox, assorted 

6 Iris, assorted 



SHRUBS— DESCRIPTIONS 



25 




SHRUBS 

Shrubs are the most important ornamentals. They are vakied and appreci- 
ated more and more, as indicated by a thousand sold now to one a generation ago. 
They have the greatest range of color and bloom, and occupy the most important 
space in the garden — and they give the quickest results. They are especially 
valued where there is only room for a few trees. The tall shrubs planted as a 
boundary make an effectual screen, and even on the larger estates an under- 
growth of shrubbery is usually planted under the trees along the boundary. Many 
fine old places have an excellent growth of trees, but lack a proper planting 
of shrubs. Shrubs are the natural complement of trees, filling in the gap between 
their l)ranches and the ground, and it is possible to get homelike results from shrubs 
that it would take years to acquire wit'.i trees alone. Anyone who has walked 
through woods from which all the natural imdergrowth has been cleared away by an 
over-tidy owner, realizes that they have lost half their charm. 

Trees can not be planted close to a house without robbing it of fight and air, 
but tall shrubs, as a background for lower ones grouped around them, take off the 
sharpness of the corners, and let the sunshine stream in at the windows. Banked 
in front of foundation walls, they relieve the harshness of the line where house and 
land meet. The home nestles cosily in a nest of green, instead of springing suddenly 
from the lawn like a Jack-in-a-box. 

It is cheaper to use shrubs to hide a steej) bank or a deep cavity than it is to 
grade them. Many a hou.se set on a narrow ridge of hill-to]) would appear to be 
less in danger of falling over the edge if the slopes around it were broadened by shrubs . 



26 



SHRUBS— DESCKll'TlONS 



ALTHEA,*or ROSE OF SHARON 

(Hibiscus Syriacus) 
(Totus Alba) 

A large single bell-shaped white flower, 
somewhat resembling the Hollyhock, 
blooming the latter part of the summer, 
when most other flowers are gone. 

Blooms from July to September. 
Flowers are white, three inches in diameter. 
Bush, upright, eight to twelve feet tall. 
Use: one of the most satisfactory large 
shrubs for jilanting singly, in climips, in 
masses, or as a hedge; hardy, succeeds 
everywhere. Planting Distance, three 
feet. Prune in winter for iirofusion of 
bloom. Do not allow the plant to run up, 
leaving base bare. Althea. 

BARBERRY An'excellent shrub for mass planting and hedges. See page 38. 
DEUTZIA LEMOINI One of the best medium-sized shrubs for planting singly 
or in masses; a very profuse bloomer. , , , -^i , ^ c ii Vf 

Blooms June-July. Flowers : branches are loaded with clusters of small white 
bell-shaped flowers. " Bush, three to four feet tall, dense, spreading. Use: very 
effective small shrub for planting singly or around the borders of shrubbery 
masses. One of the hardiest, thrives everywhere. Planting Distance, two teet. 
Prune in the spring, cutting out old, weakened canes. 





Dntit.Hn T.«Tno»nl. On«'of the best low ahriibs. 



SHRUBS— DESCRIPTIONS 



27 



DEUTZIA, PRIDE OF ROCHESTER 
(Deutzia Crenata) 

This beautiful shrub is taller, more up- 
right growing than the Deutzia Lemoini, 
and may be used as a background or in 
the center of shrubbery masses. The foli- 
age is particularly bright and clean, and 
the great profusion of flowers makes it 
one of the most satisfactory shrubs. 

Blooms in the early spring, May or June, 
about two weeks ahead of Deutzia Le- 
moini. Flowers, white, slightly tinted 
with pink, borne singly and in clusters. 
Bush, six to eight feet tall, upright. 
Used for hedges, shrubbery masses, and a 
background. Succeeds equally well in the 
shade and the sunlight. Planting Dis- 
tance, two feet apart. Prune in summer, 
just after they are through blooming. 
Trim the bush as required and cut out all 
old, weakened canes. 




Deutzia, Pride of Rochester. 



DOGWOOD (Siberian Red Osier) Its bright red color is especially desiral)le for 
(Cornus Alba Siberica) autumn and winter effects. Do not confuse 

this with the common Dogwood, described on page 11. 

Bloom, small and insignificant. It is valuable for its attractive smooth red 
bark and many clusters of small blue berries. Foliage takes on briUiant colors 
in the autumn. Bush, ten feet tall, straight, upright growth. Use as a background 
for smaller-growing shrubs and single specimens. Succeeds equally well in shady 
and sunny places. Extremely hardy. Planting Distance, two and a half to three 
feet apart. Prune lightly in the winter or spring, when the plants are dormant. Cut 
out all old, weakened canes. 

GOLDEN BELL The earliest-blooming shrub, April-May. Flowers appear be- 
(Forsythia Suspensa) fore the leaves and the canes are long wreaths of bright yellow 
bloom. Flowers, bright yellow, bell-shaped, about an inch long. Bush, six to 
eight feet tall, spreading and curving over until the tips touch the ground. Use: 
exceptionally good for planting on the outer margin of shrub groups. It can also 
be trained over arbors, fences, and porches like a low-growing vine. Hardy, 
thrives in nearly all soils. Foliage, bright, clean, and untroubled by insects. Plant- 
ing Distance, about two feet. Pruning: remove any dead or weakened growth in 
the spring, after it is through blooming. 
HIGH BUSH CRANBERRY A large 
(Viburnum Opulus) bush, re- 

seml)ling the common Snowball in foliage 
and somewhat in flower, but the flowers 
are fertile and develop beautiful clusters 
of red and gold waxen berries. These 
form in midsummer and hang on into the 
winter. Attractive red fohage lasts until 
late in the autumn. 'This fast-growing 
bush gives quick results. 

Blooms May -June. The many small 
white flowers form a ball-like cluster, 
three to four inches in diameter. Bush, 
eight to twelve feet high, spreading, up- 
right, fast-growing. Use: the center of 
shrubbery masses, as a hedge plant and 
background for smaller-growing siirubs. 
Very hardy. Planting Distance, two and 
a half to three feet apart. Prune in sum- 

Hi£:h Busb Cranberry Bloom. 




28 



SHRUBS— DESCRIPTIONS 




High Bush Cranberry. The berries are even more beautiful than the flowers, 
brilliant, waxy, red and yellow. 

mer, just after^they^ are through blooming, cutting out old, weak canes, shortening 
back those that are too long. 

HONEYSUCKLE, JAPAN BUSH 
(Lonicera Morrowii) 

This beautiful shrub has dense green 
foliage, and a profusion of flowers, followed 
by sliining red berries, which hang on until 
winter. It is one of the best ' 'all-season" 
shrubs. 

Blooms appear during May and June; 
small, creamy-white trumpet-shaped flow- 
ers, an inch long. Bush, five to six feet 
tall. Dense, spreading, round shape. 
Use : especially in shrubbery masses wl ere 
dense foliage is required. Also forn,s a 
very attractive natural round hedge. 
Hardy; succeeds equally in the shade or 
sunshine ; fast grower. Planting Distance, 
two and a half to three feet. Prune light- 
ly in the winter or spring, when ])lants are 
dormant. Remove the old, weakened 
Honeysuckle, Bush (Lonicera Morrowii). canes — also where they are too thick. 

HYDRANGEA ARBORESCENS STERILIS Conspicuous for its huge white pan- 
(Hills of Snow) icles of dense balls made up of many 

little dainty flowers; somewhat resembles the Snowball, but much larger. Blooms 
in June-July, earlier than any other Hj'drangea. Bush, four to ten feet tall, up- 
right, spreading. Use: for ])lanting in shrubberj- mass or hedge ,well back from 
walks or drives. Its large flowers show up effectively at a distance. Very hardy, 
fast grower, succeeds equally in shade or sunlight. Planting Distance, two and a 
half to three feet apart. Prime lightly in the winter or spring wl>en j)lants are 
dormant. Cut out old, weakened canes entirely. 

HYDRANGEA (Large-flowered) This Hydrangea is especially popular, because 
(H. Pan. Grandiflora) it blooms late in the summer, when flowers are 

scarce. Its huge clusters of flowers, often a foot long or more, are larger than 
those of any other shmb. It also has beautiful foliage. 

Bloom is wliite, turning to pink with the first frost. Bush, eight to ten feet tall, 
upright, spreading, fast-growing. Use in shrubbery masses and hedges, well back 
from walks and drives. Thrives best in the sun; very hardy. Planting Distance, 
two and a half to three feet. Prune lightly in the winter or spring, when the plants 
are dormant. Prune severely for quantity of flowers, less so for larger trusses. 




SHRUBS 



29 




Hydrangea Paniculata Grandiflora. 





i/./- :■ ' 


■ =%'.LiUiiJ^ 






^ 


^^^^S.j^ "*^^^^' 


^^P^ 


'^Bfr* 


1 ^^,^^ 


|^.,J|lpJ 


'Mrn^^ 


jgi^'.J! 


|t-£^ 


^m^ 


f^«i 



Hydrangea Arborescens Sterilis (Hills of Snow). 



:«) 



SHRUBS— DESCKIKIIONS 




Japanese Rose, Globe Flower. 
(Kerria Japonica.) 



JAPAN QUINCE One of the most at- 
tractive early-flowering shrubs. (See page 
38, under "Hedges, " for complete descrip- 
tion.) 

JAPANESE ROSE, GLOBE FLOWER 
(Kerria Japonica) 

An old garden favorite. Dainty, graceful 
flowers and foliage; especiallygood near 
walks and drives where it will be seen close- 
ly and becaruse it blooms throughout the 
entire season. 

Blooms appear very early in May and 
continue throughout the summer; bright 
yellow, resembling small single roses. 
Bush, four to eight feet tall; broad-spread- 
ing, with many short, slender, drooping 
branches and twigs wliich retain the green 
color throughout the spring. Use: espe- 
cially in border or as a specimen. Hardy; 
thrives in any good garden soil; it does 
well in sunlight, but prefers partial shade. 
Planting Distance, two feet apart each 
wa}'. Prune lightly in winter or spring, 
when i)lants are dormant. 



PRAIRIE ROSE This is a true Rose, but is listed here because it is most val- 
(Rosa Setigera) uable as a shrub, one of tlie most beautiful for planting near 
the walks and drives where it will be seen closely. The best "Wild Rose." 

Flowers, large, single, rose-colored, one and a half inches across; in large clus- 
ters. Blooms late in July or August; very attractive red seed-pods form the latter 
part of the summer. Flowers are like wild Roses, single, rose-colored. Bush grows 
six feet tall; forms dense, spreading bush. Use: extremely hardy, thrives everywhere, 
even in trying sit- 
uations. Planting 
Distance, two feet 
a])art each way. 
Prune lightly in win- 
ter or spring when 
plants are dormant. 

PRIVET Used 
for li e d g e s more 
than any o t her 
shrub. When 
sheared closely it 
forms no flowers; 
otherwise, it will 
produce clusters of 
small flowers re- 
sembling the Lilac. 
Its bright glossy fo- 
liage makes a very 
attractive back- 
ground for other 
low-growing shrubs. 
Grows 1 to 1 5 feet 
tall. Prairie Rose (Rosa Setigera). 




SHRUBS— DESCRIPTIONS 



31 



ROSA RUGOSA rius is a true Rose, 
(Japanese) often planted in the ex- 

treme North for its flowers, but its great- 
est value is as a shrub, as it has unusually 
attractive dark green foliage and red seed 
pods. 

Blooms appear in May and continue un- 
til midsummer. Flowers are large white 
single roses, three inches or more across, 
followed by clusters of large reddish seed- 
pods. Bush, four to five feet tall, dense 
upright growth. Use as hedge or shrub- 
bery mass; extremely hardy. Planting 
Distance, two feet apart. Pruning : do not 
prune except to remove the old bark-bound 
canes in the winter or early spring. 

SNOWBALL An old-time 

(Viburnum Opulus Sterile) garden favorite. 
Blooms in early spring, May or June. 
Flowers, large round clusters of many 
small sterile blooms. Bush, six to nine 
feet tall; upright dense growth. Use as 
center of shrubbery masses or a back- 
ground for small-growing shrubs. Hardy, 
adaptable everywhere. Planting Dis- 
tance, two and a half to three feet. 
Prune in summer, just after blooming, 
cutting out old canes, shortening back the 
new growth. 

SNO WBERRY One of t h e 

(Symphoticarpus Racemosus) daintiest, 
most attractive small shrubs, especially 
good for planting near walks and drives. 
Clusters of pearly white berries develo]i 
early and hang until late winter. 

Blooms appear very, early May or J une ; 
small and insignificant, but the clusters 
of round, white berries are very attractive. 
Bush grows four to five feet tall, drooi>- 
ing gracefully. Use at the outer margin 
of the shrubbery border, as single plants, 
also as a hedge, as it will stand a great deal 
of shearing; very hardy; thrives in the 
shade or sun. Planting Distance, one-half 
to two feet apart. Prune lightly in tlie 
winter or spring, when plants are dor- 
mant. Cut out old, weakened oanes. 




SDOwball. 
(Viburnum Opulus Sterile.) 




Snowberry. 
(SympboricarpuB Eacemosug.). 



32 



SPIREA— DESCRIPTIONS 




X 




SPIREA Most attractive shrub of all ; 

(S. Van Houttei) can be used in more ways 
and places and will give more satisfaction 
than any other shrub. The flowers and foli- 
age are dainty and attractive near walks and 
drives where it will be seen closely, yet the 
foliage is dense and the flowers so numerous 
that it is equally satisfactory to plant where 
it will be seen at a distance. It is the favor- 
ite everywhere, succeeding on all soils and 
under all conditions. If you ])lajit only one 
s'lrub, it should be Spirea. 

Blooms early — May or June. 

Flowers are white, very small. The clus- 
ters or " rosettes " appear in profusion the en- 
tire length of the branches. Form graceful, 
(h'ooping wreaths. 

Bush, four to six feet tall. 

Use singly, in shrubbery border, hedge, or 
masses to hide the foundation of the house. 
Hardy, thrives in spite of neglect. 

Planting Distance, two feet. 

Prune lightly in the winter or when plants 
are dormant. Shorten back young canes and 
cut out the old, weakened ones entirely. 



Spirea Van Houttei — The Best Shrub. 




Shrubbery Planting. 

The Spirea Van Houttei bears a small, dainty flower, but in such profusion that it'is 
one of the most conspicuous shrubs. Note the two large clumps on either side of the walk. 



SHRUBS— DESCRIPTIONS 



33 



SUMAC There is a growing appreciation of the beauty of our native plants, 

(Rhus Glabra) which are also 1 ardier and more vigorous than imported varieties. 
The Sumac is one of our most beautiful native shrubs. Its large fern-like leaves 
make it especially attractive as a foliage plant. 

Bloom appears in June, but its great attractiveness is in the long tapering 
clusters of crimson berries and fern-like foliage. Foliage turns bright red in the 
autumn. Bush, ten to fifteen feet tall, upriglit, spicading, fast grower. Use on 
rocky places or steep embankments where other shrubs will not thrive, or as a 
background for other shrubs. Extremely hardy; thrives best in the sun. Planting 
Distance, three feet apart. Pruning: for best results, cut back to the ground 
every other 3'ear or so. It will s]irout fresh from the stump. If unpruned, it 
grows tall and ragged. 

SUMAC Similar to the Sumac described above, but smaller-growing and 

(Rhus Aromatica) better for use where a low-growing shrub is desired. It has 
a very pleasant woodsy fragrance. Flowers appear early hefoie the leaves, fol- 
lowed by clusters of small coral-red berries, which stay on throughout the winter. 
Bush, three to eight feet tall, low-spreading head, especially suited for planting 
at the edge of large shrubbery irasses or under trees. Thrives everywhere. Planting 
Distance, two feet. Prune same as Sumac Glabra. 

SUMAC STAGHORN This is tall-growing and is used where a small tree is 
desired. See description under "Ornamental Trees," page 12. 
SWEET SHRUB, OR CAROLINA ALLSPICE This old favorite has small, vel- 
(Calycanthus Floridus) vety, dark red flowers, and a 

sweet, penetrating fragrance that is very pleasant. 

Blooms in June and at intervals throughout the summer. Wood is also fra- 
grant. Flowers are dark, dull red. Bush, three to six feet tall, upright. Use in 
shrubbery masses near walks or the outer margins of shiubbery masses. Haidy, 
succeeds in the shade. Planting Distance, one and a half to two feet apart. Prune 
in the summer, just after the first bloom. 




Sumac Staghorn (Rhus Typhina). The fern-like foliage with loner plumes of small 
red berries adds character and distinctiveness to shrubbery planting. This Sumac is used 
as a large shrub or a small ornamental tree. (See page 12.) 



34 



UESURIPTIUNS— SHRUBS 



One of the most fragrant white Hovvers. With 
yellow stamens at the center, the blooms 



SYRINGA, OR MOCK ORANGE 
(Philadelphus Coronarius) 

resemble orange blossoms. 

Blooms in June; white flowers with yellow centers, an inch or more across; 
fragrant. Bush, seven to ten feet tall, straight, upright growth. Use especially 
for a hedge to screen unsightly views and for planting in the centers of masses 
where tall, upright shrubs are required. Hardy, succeeds either in sun or shade. 
Planting Distance, two feet apart. Prune lightly in winter or spring when plants 
are dormant. 




Syringa, or Mock Orange (Philadelphus Coronarius). 
WEIGELA ROSEA Bright rose-colored, trumpct-sliaped flowers, like the Honey- 
CD. Florida) suckle, borne in long, graceful sprays; suited for planting 
near the walks, as well as at a distance, but necessary in every shrubbery border 
large or small. 

Blooms very early — May or June, just after the Lilacs. Best flowering shrub 
of the season. Continues to produce some blooms throughout the sunmier. Flow- 
ers are a beautiful rose color, in great profusion; very striking and attractive. 
Bush, about six feet tall, ujjright, spreading growth, esjiccially attractive foUage 
and unusually free from insects and diseases. Does well in the shade and under 
large trees where others fail. Generally adaptable everywhere. Extremely hardy. 
Planting Distance, two feet apart. Pruning: tliin out the old wood, cutting part 
of it back to the ground any time during the late winter or spring. 




Weigela Rosea (D. Florida) 



ULACS 



35 



The old-fashioned purple Lilac has a delicious fragrance that lingers in the 
memory from one blooming season to another. No shrub has been so highly de- 
veloped under cultivation. The best new varieties have immense clusters of large 
plumes, laden with sweetness. Some are double, some single. The white, reddish 
purple, and blue varieties lend themselves to many color schemes. 

Tlie Lilac grows rapidly, flowers profusely, has beautiful rich green foliage, free 
from insects. It can be used in many ways; for hedges, masses, for hiding ob- 
jectionable sights, and, when planted alone, it makes a good bush, which improves 
with age and bears more blooms each year. Cut flowers from the improved varieties 
find a ready sale on the city markets. 

The old flower clusters should be removed, and the pruning done as soon as 
they are through blooming, as the bloom buds for next year form late the preceding 
summer. 

LILAC, OLD-FASHIONED PURPLE So well known as to need no detailed 

(S. Vulgaria) description. Grows eight to ten feet 

tall. Upright. Hardy. Suitable for mass or hedge. 

LUDWIG SPATH Long plumes of single, perfectly formed, little flowers of a 
dark reddish purple. The inside of the flower is darker than the outside, showing 
beautiful contrasting shadows. Blooms in May or June. Uj^right; six to eight 
feet tall. Hardy. 

MADAME ABEL CHATENAY Large trusses of plumes. The dainty little flow- 
ers are double and of exceeding purity and whiteness. The best of all the whites. 
Blooms in May or June. Upright; six to eight feet tall. Hardy. 
PRESIDENT GREVY A light blue. Double. The trusses are unusually large 
and perfect. One of the rarest and best. Blooms in May or June. Upright; 
six or eight feet tall. 

Note. — There is as much difference between the budded Lilacs — Ludwig Spath, 
Madame Abel Chatenay, President Grevy — and the Old-fashioned purple as there 
is between the new varieties of fruits and wild seedlings. The budded varieties are 
uniform, have larger bloom, greater fragrance and beauty. 




Lllar — Maiianae Ahol Chatenay. pure white Lilac — ^Ludwijr Spath. reddish purple 



36 



CLIMBING VINES 



Many and varied are the uses of climbing vines— to drape, to mantle, to cover, 
totrarne, to beautify, to protect, to transform, to screen, to conceal Their soft 
drajjery mercifully hides ugly buildings and other unsightly objects. Shady pergo- 
las leal y arches, and pendant garlands en trees or over hedge-rows make beautiful 
pictures m themselves. 

(Am?i?Jp?i^vJLwi) 'l^^'i«,y,"^e di"gs to walls by little adhesive disks and forms a dense 
(Ampeiopsis Veitchii) mat- ike fohage, spreading rapidly over walls of two-story build- 
ing.s tall chinmeys, foundations, or covering unsightly telephone and trolley-poles 
In the autumn it glows with colors as brilliant as the Maple. It lo.ses its leaves 
in winter, giving any dampness a chance to dry out. Wood and paint that have 
had the protection of its leaves all summer are found to be in better condition than 
the exposed parts. Set vines ten to fifteen feet apart. Should have covering the 
first winter following planting, after which it is hardy. 

CLEMATIS, JAPANESE Dainty little star-shaped white flowers,borne in clusters, 
(o. ramcuiata) completely cover the upper part of the vine, giving out 

a rich, honey-hke fragrance that carries a great distance. The flowers are lasting 
and open late in summer, followed by the feathery seeds, which are verv attractive 
1 he brilliant deep green, leathery foliage is very dense and beautiful, often holding 
on until early winter. The vine is a rapid grower and will clothe large spaces 
quicldy. Set vines eight to twelve feet apart, depending on how dense a screen 
is ciesirca. Hardy. 

HONEYSUCKLE HALL'S Small trumpet-shaped flowers, a pure white u-hich 
(Lomcera Japonica Halliana) o-ndnflllv plionor. ^r. a i;,ri.+ , ii F"'^ """;«. w inLii 
f , , , , ., \ graauaiiy change to a light yellow. Ihere is a pow- 

erful sweetness about them that is wonderfully pleasant and also attracts humming- 
birds. Blooms in June, August, and late fall. Foliage is a rich dark green, that 
continues through the winter m some places and lasts until Christmas in the North 
Climbs up about fifteen feet. Set plants eight to twelve feet apart, when used as 
a screen. Set five feet apart, when vine is to train on the ground and form a 
carpet. L an be used in this way to cover unsightly banks. Hardy. 




Honeysuckle. 



Clematis. Japanese. 



CLIMBING VINES 



37 



TRUMPET VINE (Trumpet Honeysuckle) The Trumpet Vine is one of tlie most 
(Tecoma Radicans) satisfactory vines. It has been truly 

named, for the flowers, borne in chisters at the tips of its many branches, have 
a marked resemblance to trumpets. They are about three inches long, and a 
striking orange-red or scarlet. It blooms from July to the end of the summer. 
The flowers are very attractive, and the foliage has an even greater charm — a 
combination seldom found in any one vine. The leaves are made up of small 
leaflets arranged along the stem, and the foliage is so heavy and luxuriant that 
it forms graceful masses, which are especially fme for covering fences, rock walls', 
banks, trellises, and tree trunks. The branches will cling to either wood or brick 
by means of httle rootlets at the joints of the vine. With its rich, dark green 
foliage and graceful habits, it brings the atmosphere of the natural woods to your 
garden. It is^ hardy, a very fast grower, and will give results when planted in 
new places. Set vines ten to fifteen feet apart. 

WISTARIA, JAPANESE The best permanent vine. A climbing tree in itself, 
(W. Chinensis Multijuga) often attaining great size and age. Can be trained on 
walls, arbors, etc., and is esi^ecially beautiful when the vine is growing over ancl 
through a live Locust tree — the foliage and flowers resemble each other, but the 
Wistaria blooms later than the Locust. The fohage is a light green. The delicate 
pea-like flowers are borne in clusters one to three feet long — several times longer 
than the old Chinese Wistaria. This is the true Japanese Wistaria, which is a beau- 
tiful purple. There are a hundred or more small flowers in one cluster. Blooms 
early, with a second small crop of flowers in August. Thrives best when left severely 
alone . One vine will cover a large space, but to get quick results it is best to set 
them every ten or fifteen feet. Don't prune; don't fertilize. Hardy. 

For other climbers, see under Roses. 




Wistaria. 



Ivy and Climbing American Beauty Rose. 



38 



HEDGES 



The hedge takes the place of a disfiguring fence and makes a beauty of a 
necessity. There are hedges for all kinds of surroundings, straight, upright Altheas 
or gracefully drooping Spirea, as well as the closely clipped hedge of Privet, the 
Japan Quince, or the thorny Barberry. For planting distances, see page 16. 




Barberry (Japanese). The best low-growing protective Hedge — requires no attention. 



BARBERRY, JAPANESE Graceful arching twigs. Foliage coppery scarlet in the 
(Berberis Thunbergii) fall. Many decorative berries, which hang on all win- 

ter. Three to three and one-half feet tall. Quick grower. Unusually hardy. 
Thrives North or South. Stands heavy shearing, but usually does best when per- 
mitted to grow naturally. The best low ornamental defensive hedge. Has many 
small thorns, but they will not tear the clothing. Succeeds in the shade. 



HONEYSUCKLE, JAPAN BUSH 
(Lonicera Morrowii) 

feet tall. See page 28. 



The Japan Bush Honeysuckle makes a dense, 
gracefully rounded hedge. Grows five to six 



JAPAN QUINCE Bright blooming, scarlet flowers in May, and shiny green foli- 
(Cydonia Japonica) j^ge A close-chpped hedge in bloom forms a wonderful pattern 
of scarlet and brilliant green colors. Grows six to seven feet tall. Has spreading, 
thorny branches, making a strong defensive hedge. Best protective hedge and 
wind-break for flower gardens. .Stands pruning well. Very hardy. Prefers the sun. 

PRIVET, CALIFORNIA Smooth, leathery, bright green leaves, almost evergreen. 
(Ligustrum Ovalifolium) Stands severest pruning and shearing; cut out old, weak 
canes during winter. Shear new growths during summer after shoots have made 
several inches growth; can be trained high or low, and sheared with impunity. 
Eight to ten feet. Free from disease and insect pests. Sometimes kills back to 
ground in the North, but grows again. The fastest-growing and most popular 
hedge plant. 

PRIVET, mOTA This is the hardy Privet; beautiful dark, glossy foliage. Suc- 
(Ligustrum) cecds in the North, where California TVivet is injured by winters. 



HEDGES 



39 



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^M^ 








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Sr^ 






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i|Bd& *^*'^|^^gwB>JuB 




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mP^^jH^I^SI 




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Spirea Van Houttei. Makes a very graceful, free-growing Hedge. 

SPIREA VAN HOUTTEI Best white-flowered hedge. Very graceful and does 
not run riot. Therefore it is good for informal gardens as well as for formal effects. 
Medium-sized plants are quoted for hedge planting. 

RUSSIAN OLIVE (Oleaster) The Russian Ohve described on page 12 is the ideal 
(Elseagnus Angustifolia) plant for tall hedges. Planted singly, it is a small 

tree, but, planted two to four feet apart in a hedge-row, it makes a dense, branch- 
ing growth, forming a rounded solid mass of silvery green foUage, ten to twelve 
feet tall. The growth is very bushy and compact, and makes a uniform, regular 
hedge. It is also used as a wind-break along with taller-growing trees, as its dense 
growth fills in the space near the ground, which the taller trees leave open. For 
a wind-break, see page 10. 

There are many other plants which make attractive hedges, but should not be sheared as heav- 
ily as the Barberry, Privet, or Japan Quince. The fcltowing all make graceful decorative hedges: 
Althea, Deutzia, Lilac, Hydrangea, Syringa, Saowball, Weigela, Rosea, and Snowberry. Also, 
such Roses as Conrad F. Meyer, the Rugosas, Dorothy Perkins, and the Persian Yellow. 




Privet. Most v^idely used for Hedges. There is now a hardy form for northern localities. 



40 



ROSES 



THE ROSE— "QUEEN OF FLOWERS" 

These flowers of rarest beauty, in most varied forms, and with the sweetest 
perfumes, may be had from frost to frost in one glorious succession. The hardy 
Japanese Rugosas open before the others, then the old-fashioned Persian Yellow, 
followed by a host of hybrid Perpetuals (H. P.), which make June the "Month 
of Roses." After the hybrid Perpetuals (which really are not perpetuals) come 
the hardy new race of hybrid Teas (H. T.), which have the hardiness of the hybrid 
Perpetuals and the refined, fragrant, and delicate beauty of the Teas. Most won- 
derful of all, they possess the Teas' hal)it of blooming freely and continuously 
throughout the summer and autumn. Such loveliness repays many times over 
your care in cultivation and in providing deep, fertile, well-drained beds. They 
require a sunny, sheltered spot, away from the roots of shade trees which would 
rob them of much needed fertility. 

ANNIE MULLER (Pol. H.) Brilliant, shining pink flowers, medium size (twice 
(Bolder and bedding Rose) as large as Baby Rambler). Ihe bush is spreading, 
a larger, stronger grower and more attractive than the Baby Rambler. It is a 
constant and profuse bloon:er all summer long. The old flowers drop off without 
detracting from the appearance of the bush. It is the ideal "Baby" Rote for bor- 
ders and beds. Can be transplanted to a pot in the fall and taken in the hou^e, 
where it will continue to bloom all winter, a cheery bit of red and gieen. Prune 
lightly in late winter or early spring. An improved Baby Rambler — superior in 
every way. Hardy. 

CLIMBING AMERICAN ^^'onderf ul bright scarlet Rose. The blooms are borne 
BEAUTY (H. T.) singly and are suitable for cutting. Resembles its 

American Beauty parent in form and color and its Wichuriana parent in hardiness, 
vigor, and resistance to diseases, large quantities of bloom, three inches across, 
are borne in June, and occasional flowers throughout the season. Most beautiful 
climbing Rose; hardy, stands heat and drouth; foliage does not burn in the sun. 
Prune in late winter or early spring, cutting out old or weakened canes. 
COCHET See under Maman Cochet, page 42, and White Cochet, page 43. (The 
liardiest and best Tea Rose.) 




Climbing American Beauty Rope. 
A wondertul new climbing Rose. The flowers are large and suitable for cutting. 



ROSES 



41 




Conrad F. Meyer. The hardiest Rose. 



CONRAD F. MEYER (Hy. Rugosa) 
(Bedding and shiubbery) 

Silvery pink, double. Flowers early, con- 
tinuing througl-.out the season; ver,v fra- 
grant. For hedges and the lawn. A 
splendid bedding Rose for the extreme 
North, where others are too tender. Very 
vigorous and hardy. \M11 not mildew. 
Fest hybrid Rugosa. Do not prune except 
to ren^ove old canes. 

CRIMSON RAMBLER (Pol.) 
(Climber) 

Large trusses or clusters of bright, me- 
dium-sized, double, crimson flowers. The. 
most popular climber for walls, porches, 
and trellises. Unusually vigorous and 
hard}'. Cut out weak canes as they get 
older. 

DOROTHY PERKINS (H. Wich.) 
(Climber) 

Beautiful shell-pink flowers, which after a 

tin e fade to a deep rose; double; petals 

crinkled and rolled back. Flowers in large, 



loose clusters. Equal to Crimson Ram- 
bler in every way, but more elegant, 
larger, and som.ewhat fragrant. 

The foliage is small, dainty, and a glossy 
dark green; hangs late, almost evergreen. 
The vines twine around their support with 
a grace that is found in no other climber, 
and are beautiful with or without bloom. 
By far the best climbing Rose. An unus- 
ually vigorous gro\\er. A three-year-old 
vine at Stark City made forty feet growth. 
Can be planted in rows and cut back to 
form a hedge, or trained over fences and 
trellises. Cut out old canes. Hardy. 

GENERAL JACQUEMINOT ( H. P.) 
(Fcr cut flowers) 
''General Jack" is a celebrated, all- 
around Rose. Bright, shining, scarlet- 
crimson. Rich, shapely buds, soft vel- 
vety petals. Fragrant. Frune hard 
during late winter or early s p r i n g . 
Very hardy. 




Dorothy Perkins. 
The most graceful climbing Rose. 



42 



ROSES 




Gruss an TepUtz (Virginia R. Coxe) 
The darkest red. 




Maman Cochet. The hardiest Tea Rose. 



GRUSS an TEPLITZ (Virginia R. 

Coxe) 
(H. Ben) (For cut flowers, shrubs, or 

hedge) 

Dazzling, bright scarlet. Fra- 
grant. Produces flowers in clus- 
ters. One of the best dark red 
Roses for continuous and profuse 
bloom. Forms beautiful contrast 
with Snow Queen (see page 43). 
Rank, vigorous grower. Plant far 
apart. Prune !)y thinning canes 
<hu-iiig late winter or early spring. 
Hardy. 

MAMAN COCHET (T.) Tlie Queen 
(For cut flowers) of Roses. 
Rich, rosy, coral pink. Broad, 
graceful, re-curved, si ell-like pet- 
als. Large, exquisitely tapering 
buds of rare fragrance. Most pro- 
fuse, continuous blooirer, and the 
liardiestof all the Tea Roses, which, 
as a class, are only fairly hardy. 

North of St. Louis and Pliiladel- 
]ihia, the Cochets should be protect- 
ed by wrapping the tops in heavy pa- 
per or straw and raking leaves six or 
eight inches high around the base. 
The beautiful, continuous bloom 
])ays for this winter protection many 
times over. Prune lightly late in 
the wint(>r or early spi'ing. 

MARSHALL P. WILDER (H. P.) 

(Synonym — Alfied Colcomb) 

(For cut flower .1) 

Deep, dark red. Large, perfect 
flowers. A clean, vigorous grower 
and a remarkably constant l)Ioon.er 
for its class. Fragrant. Strong 
grower. Prune back lard during 
late winter or early spring. Hardy. 

PAUL NEYRON (H. P.) 
(For bedding in masses and cut flowers) 

lirigi'.t, clear pink. The largest 
rose of all; for this reason, and be- 
cause of its many petals, it is often 
called the "Peony Rose." Fra- 
grant. Continuous bloomer. 
Strong, tall grower, almost thorn- 
less. Very hardy. Prune heavily 
during late winter or early si)ring. 



ROSES 



43 



PERSIAN YELLOW (Austrian Briar) Deep, golden yellow. Sweetly fragrant. 
(For shrubbery planting) Seen in old-fashioned gardens; beloved by 

our grandniotliers. Blooms very early. Old vines should be pruned very little, 
except to take out weak canes during late winter or early spring. The head should 
be well tl)inned; canes left for flowering should not be pruned. Hardy everywhere. 

ROSA RUGOSA (Japanese) The flowers are white, large, single, with broad, 
(For shrubbery and hedges) graceful petals, and are followed by clusters of 

large, orangc-icd seed-pods. The bush is heavj^, dense, four to five feet tall. The. 
rich, dark, leathery foliage, oddly wrinkled and shiny, is beautiful in itself. Hardy 
as oaks, remarkably free from insects and other pests. Can be planted near the 
seaside and in the extreme North, where others fail. The best Rose for ornamental 
hedge and as a shrub. Do not prune, except to remove bark-bound canes. 

SNOW QUEEN (Frau Karl Druschki) (H. P.) Undoubtedly tie best and largest 
(For bedding and cut flowers) white Rose, justly called "the 

white American Beauty." Pure snow-white with faintly tinted shado-\\s. Very 
large, tapering buds, which open well. Blooms off and on throughout the season. 
Remarkably vigorous, tall grower. For bedding and cut flo^\ers. I lant three feet 
ai)art — often grows four to five feet first year. Very 1 ardy. Prune n:oderately 
^luring late winter or early spring. 

WHITE COCHET (T.) Beautiful white. A sport of the Maman Cochet and 
(For cut flowers) resembles it in every way except color. One of the best 

and most profu-ely lilooming white Roses. 

WM. R. SMITH (H. T.) Creamy white with shadings of pink. Large, full, 
(Foi cutting and bedding) beautifully formed, tapering Ijuds on long stems. Has 
the good qualities of its parents, Kaiserin Augusta Victoiia and Maman Cochet. 
The bush is extra vigorous, branching, and a i)rofuse bloomer. P'irm, glossy foliage. 
The best Rose for cut flowers. Prune lightly during late winter or early spring. 
Hardy with light protecton. 




Snow Queen (Frau Karl Druschki) (H. P.) The favorite White Rose 



44 



THE HARDY PERENNIALS 



"Hardy perennials" are plants of permanent beauty. They will very nearly 
take care of tliemselves. Their culture is refreshingly easy, compared with that 
of "tender" annuals, whose seed must be sown every spring — often under glass 
or indoors — or with the culture of tender flowers which are killed by the first frost. 

They were the favorites in the old-fashioned gardens. But how different 
are the Peony, the Phlox, and the Iris of to-day! What greater wealth of color and 
bloom! What a number of different and exquisite forms, so changed and mul- 
tiplied that any relation to the old-fashioned flowers seem almost impossible! 
But the relation is there, for they retain the old-fashioned hardiness and vigor, 
producing more abundant blooms and multiplying as they grow older. 

Plant the Peony, the Phlox, and the Iris. They merely go to sleep in the 
autumn, preparing for greater loveliness and beauty each succeeding spring. 

PEONY 

The Peony is the most popular and widely planted of all hardy flowers. It 
is grand without being gaudy, large without being coarse, fragrant without being 
pungent. It is easily grown. It is hardy wherever apple trees can be grown, 
and in the extreme North requires very little protection. Once established, it 
becomes a permanent flower, and is practically free from diseases and insects. It 
is ideal for cut flowers; is used by the carload on Memorial Day, and is often cut 
and held in cold storage a month for this day, and for decorative purposes at 
weddings and celebrations. Many people make "pin money" every year by sell- 
ing cut flowers from a few clumps of Peonies at 75c to ll.OO per dozen. 

COURONNE d'OR White, reflecting yellow, with a ring of golden stamens 
(Crown of Gold) ])edded at the base of the central petals. A very large, 

full, well packed, solid flower; semi-double, super!) form, late, fragrant. A good 
grower and reliable bloomer. For cut flowers and landscape. This is one of the 
best Peonies for every purpose. 



br^^^^jM^r^^^^ . . 


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i^'^A^^fc 


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Festiva Maxima. Fragrant; the favorite Peony. 



PEONIES 



45 





Couronne d'Or iCrown of Gold). 
One of the largest Whites. 



Felix Croucse. Brilliant red. 



DELACHEI Large and full, deep purple-crimson. The best dark -colored; semi- 
double; i)leapant odor. Late mid-season. Strong grower and profuse bloomer. 
For cut flowers and landscape. 

DORCHESTER Beautiful light clear pink, creamy center, perfectly double, rose- 
shaped bloom. Sweet-scented. Late. Very profitable for cut flowers; adapted 
to landscape work. 

DUCHESSE de NEMOURS Pure white, cup-shaped bloom with sulphur-white 
collar. \'ery fragrant. Of all Peonies, not one is so exquisite as the Duchesse de 
Nemours in the half-open state. Early bloomer; long stems. Unusually profitable 
for cut flowers; adapted to landscape work. 

FELIX CROUSSE Brilliant ruby red with flame-cclored center. Large, com- 
pact, ball-shaped flower. Fragrant; mid-season. Free bloomer. Extra good for 
cut flowers and for landscape. 

FESTIVA MAXIMA Pure white, usually with a few of the central petals tipped 
with drops of carmine. Immense double bloom, spicy fragrance. A very vigorous 
grower, with flowers on long, stiff stems. The best of all the whites. Keeps well. 
Most profitable for cut flowers and a great flower for the garden. 
JEANNE d'ARC Soft, delicate pink, with light "yellow-white" center, spotted 
(Joan of Arc) with carmine, a charming combination. Fragrant. Sure, pro- 

fuse bloomer. \'ery good for cut flowers. The best and most popular tri-colored 
Peony. Mid-season. 

MADAME LEBON Very large, full, showy, compact bloom. L^niform color of 
bright cherry pink. Mid-season. Fine for cut flowers or landscape. 
NIGRICANS Dark, uniform crimson. Globular, compact bloom; showy. Mid- 
season. Good for cut flowers. Fine for landscape. 

PRINCE IMPERIAL Dark purplish red. Semi-rose-shaped Ijloom. Very large. 
Strikingly beautiful. Moderately late. For landscape or cut flowers. 



46 



IRIS 



"THE RAINBOW FLOWER" 

The old-fashioned "Blue Flag" is the only form of the Iris generally known. 
Its Ijeauty has never lieen fully appreciated — ]^erha]3s because it has shown such 
great willingness to thrive and bloom, and such freedom from all pests and diseases. 

The many newer and more wonderful forms have also been neglected. They 
have a grace and beauty that is beyond description. iSuch loveliness of form and 
harmonious tints can be found elsewhere onty an ong Orchids. 

BLACK PRINCE Large, conspicuous petals; beautiful dark purplish blue, finely 
veined with lighter shades. Medium size; flower stem, eighteen inches to two feet. 
Early-blooming. Hardy. 

CELESTE The entire flower is a uniform tint of pale lavender. One of the largest, 
most Ijeautifully colored Ii;is. Three feet tall. 

FLAVESCENS Exquisite creamy white blossoms on stalks, two to three feet tall. 
Long bluoniing season. Large size, sweet-scented, and fine for cut flowers. 
MADAME CHEREAU A lovely white; all petals elegantly frilled with a wide 
border of clear blue, A tall, stately, queenly flower, one of the most beautiful. 
Large size; flower stalks, two to three feet. Long blooning sea.' on. Especially 
fine for cut flowers. Hardy. 

SANS SOUCI The uprigl^t petals are canary yellow, veined with dove color; the 
drooping ])etals are interlaced and edged with a dull maroon. Very showy. Profuse 
bloomer. Small size. Hardy. 

SIBERIAN BLUE Exquisite blue. Fine for cut flowers. It has narrow, grass- 
like foliage, with tall stems bearing sn all flowers. The upright petals are narrow, 
and almost straight. The drooping petals are broader, but dainty. Profuse blooirer. 
Extren:ely hardy and resistant to drouth. 



•«. ^. 





Madame Chereau. White, frilled with'blue. 



Sans Scuci. Canary yellow, dull marooi 



PHLOX 



47 



The'Phlox is a native of our western prairies. There were thousands of acres 
of wild Phlox in this country before the white man ever saw it. They are used to 
the winds and heat of summer and the blizzards of winter. The improved, culti- 
vated varieties show how much the gardener can do to assist Nature in developing 
more radiant and graceful forms. Phlox means "flame" — and where else will you 
find the glowing brilliancy of a cluster of these charming flowers? And where is 
t! ere a flower that will yield such a wealth of continuous bloom, regardless of 
storms, heat, or drouth all through the middle of the hot summer? 

COQUELICOT Red, medium height. An orange-scarlet or vernJlion, ^^ ith a small 
purple eye. The finest, brightest, and n.ost noticeable led. It stands cut in the 
garden like a flame of fire. 

FRAU VON LASSBURG White, medium to tall. A pure snow white, the largest 
.ami best of that color. Especially good for cut flowers. 

LE MAHDI Blue; medium height. A deep pure violet-blue. The best of this 
color. \'ery large flowers. 

MISS LINGARD White, with a light pink center; tall. A creamy white, with 
faint jMnk at the center; a very attractive flower; especially valuable for cutting. 
Grown largely by florists. While it can not be classed as an ever-bloon.er, it will 
produce several crops in a season. A great favorite with everyone. 

RICHARD WALLACE White, with a crimson eye. Tall. The large white petals 
are tinted with lavender, which gives it a very striking appearance. Hardy and 
almost a continuous bloomer. One of the best for cut flowers. 




Miss Lingard. White with pink center. Frau Von Lassburg. Pure white. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Page 

Arrangement of Shrubs, Trees, etc. Planting, Pruning, etc. 

Attractive vs. Unattractive 8 Climbing Vines 16 

General Principles 8 Hedges 15, 16 

The Right Way 4 Iris 17 

The Wrong Way 5 Lilac 15 

Blue Prints between 24-25 Ornamental Trees 14 

Civic Improvement 9 PMox y ...... .18 

Foreword 1 Roses. ...... . . '. . . . . . . . -is, i9, 20 

Fruit Garden 13 Shrubs 14 

Grouping of Shrubs 6 Shrubbery Masses, Examples of 7 

Planning for Planting Table of Shrubs 21 

Before and After 2 y. •*/-.,. *• n, 99 

General Principles 3 Unit Collection Plan 22 

Home Grounds, by Prof. Waugh 22 xjnit Collections 24 

Principles by Prof. Waugh 23 

When to Plant 14 Wmd-breaks iQ 

DESCRIPTIONS 

Climbing Vines: Boston Ivy, 36; Clematis, Japanese, 36; Honeysuckle, Hall's, 36; 
Trumpet Vine, 37; Wistaria, Japanese, 37. 

Hedges: Barberry, Japanese, 38; Honeysuckle, Japan Bush, 38; Japan Quince, 38; 
Privet, California, 38; Privet, Ibota, 38; Spirea Van Houttei, 39; Russian 
Olive, 39. 

Iris: Black Prince, 46; Celeste, 46; Flavescens, 46; Madame Chf^reau, 46; Sans 
Souci, 46; Siberian Blue, 46. 

Lilac: Lilac, Old-fashioned Purple, 35; Ludwig Spath, 35; Madame Al^el Chate- 
nay, 35; President Grevy, 35. 

Ornamental Trees: Bechtel Double-flowered Crab, 10; Black Walnut, 11; Dog- 
wood, Common, 11; Elm, American White, 11; Golden Rain Tree (Varnish 
Tree), 11; Green Ash, 11; Horse Chestnut, 12; Linden, or Basswood, 12; Ma- 
ple, Norway, 12; Maple, Silver Leaf , 12; Maple, Sugar, 12; Poplar, Carolina, 
12; Poplar, 'Lcmbardy, 12; Russian Olive, 12; Staghorn Sumac, 12; Sycamore, 
European, 12. 

Peony: Couronne d'Or, 44; Delachei, 45; Dorchester, 45; Duchesse de Nemours. 
45; Feli.x Crou.sse, 45; Festiva Maxima, 45; Jeanne d'Arc, 45; Madame Le- 
bon, 45; Nigricans, 45; Prince Imperial, 45. 

Phlox: Coquelicot, 47; Frau Von Lassburg, 47; Le Mahdi, 47; Miss Lingard, 47; 
Richard Wallace, 47. 

Roses: Annie MuUer, 40; Climbing American Beauty, 40; Conrad F. INIeyer, 
41; Crimson Rambler, 41; Dorothy Perkins, 41; General Jacqueminot, 41; 
Grussan Teplitz, 42; Maman Cochet, 42; Marshall P. Wilder, 42; Paul Ney- 
ron, 42; Persian Yellow, 43; Rosa Rugosa, 43; Snow Queen, 43; White Co- 
chet, 43; Wm. R. Smith, 43. 

Shrubs, 25; Altlea, or Rose of Sharon, 26; Barberry, 26; Deutzia Lemoini, 26; 
Deutzia, Pride of Rochester, 27; Dogwood (Siberian Red Osier), 27; Golden 
Bell, 27; Higli Bush Cranberry, 27; Honeysuckle, Japan Bush ,28; Hydrangea, 
Arborescens Sterilis, 28-29; Hydrangea, Paniculata Grandiflora, 28-29; Japan 
Quince, 30; Japanese Rose, Globe Flower, 30; Prairie Rose, 30; Privet, 30; 
Rosa Rugosa, 31; Snowball, 31; Snowberry, 31; Spirea Van Houttei, 32; Su- 
mac, 33; Sumac, 33; Sumac, Staghorn, 33; Sweet Shrub, or Carolina Allspice, 
33; Syringa, or Mock Orange, 34; Weigela Rosea, 34. 




Dorothy Perkins Climbing Rose. 






LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 

IIIRPIFliiiiririii'iiiiit 



000 882 338 8 i 



tt TN the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New 
-■- York, are paintings and statuary by art- 
ists whose names are household words in all 
civilized lands. Surrounding the Museum is a 
great play-ground of exceeding beauty where 
millions of people find recreation and delight 
without even having heard the name of Fred- 
erick Law Olmsted. Few indeed suspect that 
they are indebted to his imagination and train- 
ed artistic sense for Central Park. By enter- 
ing into a working partnership with Nature, 
he was enabled to transform a tract of unlove- 
ly land, interspersed with swamps, barren 
rocks, and rubbish heaps, the last resort of 
squatters and goats, into scenes of non-natural 
but wholly naturalistic beauty, and the belief 
of the enraptured multitude that Nature cre- 
ated them so, should be rightly interpreted as 
the triumph of Olmsted's creative art. Surely 
the man who has wrought out on a vast scale 
so clear an artistic ideal with living pigments 
should be as fully entitled to recognition in the 
ranks of artists as the painter of a landscape 
on canvas that hangs within the Museum 
walls." — Neltje Blanchan." 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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